The strong Italian Laura Rogora repeats the endurance hammer Lapsus (9a+) in the Italian climbing area of Andonno. Since Stefano Ghisolfi's first ascent in 2015, the route has only seen a handful of repeats.
Laura Rogora is the first woman to repeat the 9a+ route Lapsus. After her successful climb, she still had one more day of climbing left Andonno, which the 22-year-old Italian used to score the routes Cobra reale (8c+/9a) and Noi (8b+).
I am proud to add my name to the list of repeaters of this piece of Italian climbing history.
Laura Rogora
She needed a few sessions to climb Lapsus. This is pretty impressive considering that the Italian is completely training for competition climbing with a view to Paris 2024 and therefore spends little time on the rock.
And despite these circumstances, she was able to do so in August of this year during a three-day team meeting in Picos de Europa two difficult onsight ascents to their credit: Ajo Crudo (8c) and Los Lunnis (8b+)
Lapsus: consensus at 9a+
When Stefano Ghisolfi combined the two routes Noia (2015c+) and Anaconda (8c) in 8 to create Lapsus, he proposed the grade 9b, which made his new line at Andonno the first 9b in Italy.
Later repeaters like Adam Ondra, Marcello Bombardi or Jonathan Siegrist However, we found this rating to be a bit too high, even if the route was climbed without a kneepad, as was the case on the first ascent. Since 2021, Lapsus has been considered a solid 9a+ hard.
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Credits: Cover picture @fabiofinstudiofotografico