Piotr Schab spent two months climbing from climbing area to climbing area this summer and made short work of difficult routes. For example with the 8c route Baby Boyhe not only just started, but also onsight. Other highlihts of his trip are the visit of biography in Céüse and an almost onsight-visit of a 8c +.
The name Piotr Schab is not as common as most people yet Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Alex Megos and Co. That could change very soon. What the young Pole climbed on his two-month climbing trip is hard to believe.
First stop Céüse
The 21 year-old made a first stop in the French sports climbing area Céüse on. One of his long-term projects called him: the ultra-classic Biography (9a +). After just a few days, Piotr had every reason to be happy: “Throughout the last two years, I have thought about the moment of finishing the Biography many many times. And, as life mostly does, it played this card in the least suspected moment possible, ”he says. On the day of the inspection everything spoke against an inspection: the weather was miserable, the rock damp, it was rather slack. Nevertheless, almost as if in a dream, he suddenly found himself at the booth of one of the most famous sport climbing routes. He sums up his feelings with “Scream, Applause, Tears”.
Next stop Spain
The trip took Piotr on to Spain, where he made a first stop in Cuenca and heard a success story. He succeeded in onsighting the route Nuria (8c). A few days later, still in Cuenca, Piotr Schab gets another 8c onsight walk. On top of that, it's the route Baby Boy is a first ascent. The route was established by Darek Kaluza.
The goal of his journey narrowly missed
Even though Piotr was delighted with his visits, he always had a bigger goal in mind. On his climbing trip he wanted to commit a 8c + onsight. An attempt to achieve this goal he undertook in the route Potemkin. "I started with a long-awaited try on Potemkin 8c + and I must admit that I've never come so close to onsighting a route. I fought super hard to fall on the very last move, basically holding the top jug. No words to describe my disappointment at that moment, ”says Piotr disappointed. He climbed just before the stand and was closer to his onsight ascent than ever before, but then this: “I decided to take a step back and clip from the smaller holds below .. Then the foothold broke, I fell, the chain remained unclipped. "
The outbreak of a kick Piotr thwarted the bill
Despite a missed goal: Incredible Ticklist
We suspect that Piotr Schab overcomes the disappointment of the failed onsight inspection of an 8c +. At least a look in his route book after the two-week Cuenca stay should help. He climbed 24 routes in the eighth French grade onsight. Here in detail:
- Baby boy (8c)
- Alpinismo Deportivo (8c)
- Nuria (8c)
- Neo (8b +)
- Taladrina (8b +)
- 5 x 8b
- 8 x 8a +
- 6 x 8a
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Credits: Cover picture Piotrek Schab