The Parallel World (D2018) line in the Tomorrow's World Cave in the Dolomites, first climbed in 16, is considered one of the most difficult dry tooling routes in the world. At the beginning of May, Bulgarian mountain guide Victor Varoshkin was the first climber to repeat the line in pure dry tooling style.
What Burden of Dreams (9A) is in bouldering or Silence (9C) in sport climbing Parallel world (D16) in dry tooling: One of the most difficult routes in the world. The route opened in December 2018 by the Pole Dariusz Sokoลowski in the Tomorrow's World Cave In the Dolomites it has only been possible to repeat it a few times so far. The Bulgarian mountain guide was the first climber to do so Victor Varoshkin Score the route in pure dry tooling style.
Why is this detail so relevant? When talking about DTS or Dry Tooling Style, the Figure of 4 is not used when climbing, which requires a much more complex foot technique and adds a lot of additional spice to heavily overhanging mega lines like Parallel World.
The first look at the line was overwhelming. The never-ending sea of โโquickdraws that stretched 60 meters above my head demanded all of my physical and mental stamina.
Victor Varoshkin
Step by step to get through
Victor Varoshkin projected Parallel World (D16) for a good dozen days until he felt ready to climb the line. The only survivable approach to such a never-ending route was to approach it step by step, said the Bulgarian mountain guide.
I was always too spontaneous, chaotic and impatient for such an ordeal, but I have proven to be adaptable.
Victor Varoshkin
All remaining routes First Go
After the first repeat of Parallel World, Victor Varoshkin used his excellent form to climb all remaining routes in Tomorrow's Wold Cave First Go. That would be:
- Fear Index (D12)
- Edge of Tomorrow (D13)
- Let Them Eat Cake (D13+)
- Oblivion (D14)
- Je Ne Sais Quoi (D14+)
- Tomorrow's World (D14/14+)
- Invocation (D14+)
- French Connection (D15-)
- A Line Above the Sky (D15)
โTo get a better feel for judging, I set myself the challenge of flashing all the routes in the Tomorrow's World cave,โ says Victor Varoshkin. The term flash may not be entirely appropriate in this case, as certain routes would have common passages.
โBut due to my poor memory and the sheer length of the routes, it always felt like a flash climb.โ
Oblivion (D14) seemed the hardest for him. ยซHalfway through the route I was about to fly off. It was only with great difficulty that I made it to the diverter. I guess it had something to do with the 20 kilometers and 1200 meters of altitude that I hiked the day before with my child in my backpack."
That might interest you
- Dry tooling: what is it? What does it take to do this?
- Martin Feistl: โThe greater the fears, the greater the experienceโ
Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here..
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Alexander Valchev