In mid-March, the Polish dry tooling specialist Jedrzej Jablonski paid a visit to the huge grotto of Büs Del Quai. In less than a week he climbed numerous big tours of the Italian dry tooling spot, including the D15 rated mega-classic Uragano Dorato.
The ticklist of Jedrzej Jablonskis Short stay in the dry tooling area Bus Del Quai at Lake Iseo you can see: Mega roof (D12+) second go, Low G Man (D14) first go, Super Ale (D10) flash, Squirting woman (D12) second go, Milarepa extension (D10) second go, pecos (D10) second go and Uragano Dorato (D15).
Potential not yet exhausted
Born in Poland, Jedrzej Jablonski resides in the United States, where he divides his time between Washington and Colorado. Since he first started ice climbing in 2011 and Drytooling came into contact, the fascination for the possibilities offered by the tools never lets go of him. Since then he has been trying to push his own limits and optimize the interplay between the human body, tools and medium (rock, ice or artificial holds).
In line with the evolution of this still relatively young sport, he recently designed his own ice tools. "That was one of the things that took my climbing to a new level," says Jedrzej Jablonski. “Not because I had better devices, but because I had acquired the knowledge that was necessary to develop the devices.
Uragano Dorato (D15) – the test piece
In 2019, Jedrzej Jablonski travels to Lombardy for a short 2-day trip and climbs the line in Büs Del Quai Kamasutra (D13+). In March of this year, the strong Pole returned to the Italian dry tooling area. He made short work of numerous routes up to D14 difficulty and climbed them on the first or second attempt.
His flash attempt at Uragano Dorato (D15), the Büs Del Quai classic, ended abruptly just before the first, bouldering part. "My feet slipped and I fell from an underhand grip that seemed better than it was effective." After the unsuccessful Flash attempt, Jablonski worked on the moves three more times before climbing the massive roof route in one go.
Uragano Bagnato (D15+) – a dig
During the same stay in Büs del Quai, Jedrzej Jablonski announced the first ascent of Uragano Bagnato, a sitstart extension by Uragano Dorato. However, behind this new creation with a difficulty level of D15+ and a total length of 1000 meters (after leaving the roof, the tour leads around the whole of Lake Iseo) there is less a serious First Ascent hidden than Jedrzej Jablonski's dry humor.
“The origin of this joke is repeating my route through Sangreal (D14+). Filip Babicz, the first ascent of Uragano Dorato. He added a sit start and two moves to my route and then claimed the Sangreal Extension for himself.” The circumnavigation of the lake is nothing more than a joke and a reference to climbers, who equate the length of a route with the difficulty.
air upward
When asked about the challenges of the lines in Büs Del Quai, Jedrzej Jablonski replied that while the routes were not easy, they did not yet represent the limits of what is feasible.
The endurance hammer Uragano Dorato is long with 50 meters of overhanging climbing and the possibility of screwing it up is correspondingly large. However, he felt very well prepared for the climb and did not think that something could go wrong. "The grips are all very good, so it's unlikely that you'll slip and fall," says Jablonski.
These are the most difficult dry tooling routes
There are currently three D16 grade routes worldwide: Parallel World in Tomorrows World Cave in the Dolomites, Storm Giant in Canada and Oświecenie in Poland.
That might interest you
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- Michi Wohlleben manages a heavy mixed route on Seebenseefall
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Credits: Cover picture Sarah Hase