Alex Megos continues on his successful course in Spain and scores routes like Gancho Perfecto (9a/+) and Red Ram (9a+).
For one thing, we feel compelled to use superlatives when it comes to the title of an article about the German professional climber. Alexander Megos has been in Spain for a few days and is climbing one difficult tour after the other.
The success story began on October 10, 2022, when Alexander Megos. the routes within a few hours Off the tractor (8c) Patan el villano (8c) and Patatas el villano (8c +) red dot climbed. Two days later he made the first ascent of the 9b route The Full Journey to cause a stir (Lacrux reported).
And as it seems, Alexander Megos hardly needs any rest days. Already three days after the first ascent of The Full Journey announced the successful ascent of Gancho Perfecto (9a / +).
«After climbing The Full Journey it was time to get back into the route [Gancho Perfecto, ed. editorial office]. After I looked at the trains twice and tried them out, I managed to get through!”
Alex Megos
Alex Megos looked at the Gancho Perfecto route four years ago and is amazed at how much the route has changed. "It strikes me as odd that grips and kicks 'erode' and grow in such a short time," says Megos, alluding to that Chipping problem in the Finestra Wall sector in Margalef.
Megos goes one better: First repetition of Red Ram (9a +)
But back to the German success story, which has not yet been told to the end. The inspection of Gancho Perfecto was followed by the next coup just three days later. Megos was in the Montserrat climbing area for a film project, accompanied by the strong Spaniard Ramón Julián Puigblanqué. The latter opened the Red Ram route in 2013 and rated it 9a+. Since then, numerous strong climbers have tried to climb the line without success.
Until now Alexander Megos showed up. Puigblanqué supported Megos in finding the ideal beta, whereupon Megos made a first promising attempt. Unfortunately, a handle broke out at a central point, which initially prevented him from free ascent. However, the route did not resist him for long, Megos clipped the deflector in the third attempt to climb through.
"I think 9a + could fit. The route fully corresponds to my style and the climbing is very similar to the Frankenjura. That's why I can't rate the route well and I'm curious what future repeaters will say.»
Alexander Megos.
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Credits: Cover picture Esteban Lahoz