Several climbers are sounding the alarm: Famous routes such as Victimas Perez (9a) or Gancho Perfecto (9a+) have been chipped in the Finestra Wall in the world-famous Spanish climbing area Margalef. Unknowns have increased several holds and filed down aggressive edges.
Modifying holds in climbing routes is not a new phenomenon in Spanish crags. Nonetheless, recent developments are worrying. Several classics in the sector Finestra Wall in Margalef were chipped, including those from Chris Sharma established lines Victimas Perez (9a) and Gancho Perfecto (9a +).
Improved grips and softened edges
got the ball rolling Angie Scarth Johnson, who recently became the first woman to climb Victimas Perez. She noticed a change in a bar during projecting after returning to the route after a pause. "Certain dents in a handle have been removed."
Pointed out by the Australian climber, represents Jorge Dias Rullo determined that the chipped grip also affected the neighboring route Gancho Perfecto. "Hold with the other hand, the groin is now more positive," said the Madrid climber, who was often seen in Margelef this spring.
Angie Scarth-Johnson then checked Victimas Perez in detail for changes. In doing so, she found that the final handle was ground down to a smooth, edgeless bag. "The sharpness that the handle once had was gone." Jorge Días Rullo also climbed the route and confirmed the Australian's discovery.
The Spaniard then checked the other lines as well and thought he had noticed changes in Gancho Perfecto. "But I wasn't sure because I climbed the route over a year ago and couldn't remember it very well." Several local climbers then checked the classics drilled by Chris Sharma and found even more chipped holds in the two routes.
Changes in the Victimas Perez and Gancho Perfecto climbing routes
Here a very painful edge has been filed down to allow for longer rest and better recovery. Image: Beto Rocasolano A one-finger hole became a solid two-finger hole. Image: Beto Rocasolano Two movements with three fingers become a move with four fingers. Image: Beto Rocasolano The changes make it possible to make this first crux static due to the new deepening. Image: Beto Rocasolano The last grip in Victimas Perez has been defused so that it no longer hurts under full load. Image: Beto Rocasolano
Create awareness
Various climbing professionals have drawn attention to the situation in Margalef on social media. On the one hand they are venting their anger that classic lines are being irreparably changed, on the other hand many hope to be able to sensitize them to the topic of chipping.
Manipulating holds on established routes is the worst thing there is, says Tom Bolger, a climber with some lines from the Finestra sector in his route book. "We hope that raising public awareness will help ensure that this doesn't happen again in the future."
"We hope that raising public awareness will help ensure that this doesn't happen again in the future."
Tom Bolger
This conflict is causing tension in the local climbing community Beto Rocasolano. "Nobody knows what's going on, although we all agree that this is a tremendous lack of respect for all climbers who have invested the time and enthusiasm to attempt these routes." Symbolic lines would thus lose their reputation and level.
Questions, questions
How far can the human ego go? If we don't succeed, isn't it better to take a different path and come back stronger? The events in Margalef raise many questions, not only among the Brothers Pou, who also comment on the topic in social media.
"If we don't succeed, isn't it better to take a different path and come back stronger?"
the Pou brothers
For example, the comment columns also debate whether chipping is more legitimate in easier routes than in more difficult classics. Or whether top climbers who modify the rock for a certain style don't underestimate their function as role models, since in the end it's all about adapting nature to personal needs.
Video: Tom Bolger climbs Victimas Perez
«Who has the right to chip? No one. Why do we accept that climbers who set up routes can chip, glue or do other things?"
Bertrand Martenet
Bertrand Martenet even suggests rethinking the entire ethical process. "Most of the difficult routes in Spain are modified and the climbing community doesn't give a damn about it." He gives examples La Dura Dura, First Round First Minute, Coup or also the above-mentioned Finestra sector in Margalef. It is a big taboo to talk about it. «Who has the right to chip? No one. Why do we accept that climbers who set up routes can chip, glue or do other things?"
The topic of chipping is a worldwide phenomenon and offers a lot of room for debate. We recently reported that in Ticino systematically chipped climbing routes will. And now it's becoming public that high-end routes are being modified in Margalef.
How do you feel about that? Write us your opinion in the comment column.
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Credits: Cover picture Angie Scarth Johnson
How was that? Murder in the impossible, a dead end, ethically unacceptable...Diretissima time in the 50s and 60s...bolt ladders in the sense of a falling drop...direct lines as possible through the Great Walls...then reflection, back to Paul Preuss...free climbing, rock hooks only Secure it and don't use it to move around... so far so good...1974 at the age of 10 my first 3000m, 1979 free climbing was very popular with the youth organizations of the Alpine Clubs in Switzerland...1980, with Heinz Jost, we opened up Alibaba in the Calanqes, near the grotto our first new route. Of course from below with rock hooks that we set out of cliffs. It was really the first route...there were supposed to be more than 1500, looking back on a 44-year climbing career full of passion...let's get down to business, chipping routes...yes, I clearly reject it if routes are subsequently adapted to one's own level will! Most often this is done out of misunderstood ego. More appearances than reality!
As a route developer, I don't just look at changing them in black and white, good and bad... the world isn't like that, and even less so is the world of climbing.
A few bad words are quickly said, accusations spread... and these are then not so easily revocable.
It's nice to actively follow the climbing scene in the 80s and to have helped shape it from time to time. Against the background of this knowledge, I try to present a differentiated picture. There were always strong statements from very nutritious climbers who clearly rejected chipping as a cancerous growth... the problem at the top of the world, i.e. in the high-end area, is always the ego.
So handles were removed and then reattached so that no one else could do the project beforehand... handles paved over so that no other beta could be possible and of course handles were drilled or Sika strips glued...
Own routes developed, cleaned... and that's where it begins. What does cleaning mean now? What is allowed and what isn't...?? First of all, I am of the opinion that a developer should work here with personal responsibility. How dangerous is it if, for example, a loose dandruff breaks out. Should I stick them on or remove them? What can I do if a very important grip on the beta is loose? Should I fix it or should I leave it and the desired route will no longer be possible on this line...
Should I file down the sharp edge, or pull on with a bloody finger every time I climb?
And here most likely every purist will be grateful if the dangerous scale was fixed by the explorer and he doesn't fall and the scale doesn't cut the rope... as I said, there is no such thing as good and evil, that would be too easy!
And of course, I also manipulated routes. Adjusted to my ability. But always before the first ascent and always with full honesty!
Anyone who then rejected the Sika handle didn't have to go up there...
◦ Now, at the age of 58, so many things have passed me by and I know first-hand... "and whoever thinks they are innocent should throw the first stone"😉
PS: I think Adam Ondra's thoughts on this topic are very successful...
Pesche
One of several exciting topics. First of all, I find it important that there are tens of thousands of ascents where the artificially created holds were not noticed. For example, this is my impression of the crags in the val durance. But the tours are good, I like climbing there! For a long time I also thought I would never approve of such a thing. But when a hold broke at the key point on one of my first ascents, I glued on a stone of the same size. Of course that wouldn't have been necessary, the route was the second hardest in the area, probably doesn't have a handful of encounters yet and stronger climbers don't go there. So I allowed myself that. From my point of view, it is therefore a question of proportionality. If 30m of rock result in a nice 6b and the first ascent recognizes this and implements this through a change (because the part would otherwise be an unsightly individual point 8a), this must be weighed against everything around it. However, it is not possible to change the routes of others afterwards. Even if some first-time users in Germany would have more fans if they were more user-friendly
or would renovate. The statement "the Germans want a lot of hooks everywhere except on their own rocks" (quote from "Klimten") got me thinking. But that's another topic. Rolf