The pair of climbers Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher succeed the first repetition of the Eiger-Route Odyssey under massively difficult conditions.
The difficult and heavily overhanging climbing route Odyssey in the north face of the Eiger was first climbed by Roger Schäli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl in 2015. "High five for Roger Schäli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl for this amazing route they put up and team-freeclimbed in 2015 as the hardest free climb on the Eiger," writes Babsi after her red point ascent.
Soaking wet 7c pitches: No problem for Babsi and Jacopo
Quite apart from the fact that the mere ascent is an achievement in itself, it must be added that the two scored the route in the worst possible conditions: “Some wet pitches scared us like hell (including 7c pitches - editor's note) and we were close to give up at some point. At the end of the whole adventure went out pretty lucky and we completed an all free ascent in 4 days for both of us. Super happy, ”said Babsi.
Cuddly sleeping place in the middle of the climbing route Odyssey
Check out this post on Instagram
Information about the route Odyssee in the Eiger north face
Route: "Odyssey"
Preparation: 2009 to 2013 Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli
First ascent: Robert Jasper, Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl - August 2015 - Team Rotpunkt Style
Character: Very serious high alpine bigwall route in the Eiger north face
wall height: 1400 meters
Difficulty: 8a +
Itineraries History: Entry from the Eiger Glacier 2320 meters to the Wandfuß and over the classic north face (Heckmair route, 1938) to the Stollenloch. Continue over the overhanging Rote Fluh and the Czar pier until you get to about 3700 meters (see topo!)
Fuse: sporty with stainless M10 drills and partly in the "Trad Style" with hooks. It will be used to further hedge 2 sets Camlots. For emergencies, it is recommended to use a hammer, 2-3 knife hook and 2 Pecker. (Expo to E5!)
The Topo of the Odyssey route is available here.
You may also be interested in
—
Credits: Cover picture Paolo Sartori, Information about the route from Simon Gietl