Crack specialist Peter Whittaker manages the flash ascent of the classic La Fuerza de la Gravedad (8b) by Carlos Logroño Viscasillas in Spain. Even if the wide boy "only" classifies the line as 8b soft thanks to the new beta, it is still one of the toughest flash ascents of a trad route.
"It's not common to find cracks like this in limestone," enthuses Pete Whittaker. They are often not shaped correctly or have a lot of handles. La Fuerza de la Gravedad (8b) in Vadiello, Spain, is an exception in this respect. The roof crack was up to the free inspection of Carlos Logrono Viscasillas overcome in September 2017 in technical climbing (A2).
For Pete Whittaker Reason enough to pay a visit to the Trad line and achieve one of his toughest flash ascents in this climbing style in a 35-minute struggle.
Why cracks are suitable for flash inspections
"I always find it difficult to flash physically hard trad lines," says Pete Whittaker. Because with the degree of difficulty, the danger often increases, or the placement of the fuses can become more complicated.
However, crack climbing offers a fantastic opportunity to advance into the harder trad grades (8b/8b+/8c/8c+) without the to increase, which is perfect for onsight and flash attempts.»
Pete Whittaker
What it takes for high-end trad routes
Pete Whittaker has climbed some of the most physically challenging trad routes in the world over the course of his climbing career, including Recovery Drink (8c+), Lamb of God (8c), Century Crack (8c) and Cobra Crack (8c). Together with Tom Randall, he wanted to find out what it takes to be able to climb traditional routes in the ninth French degree.
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Credits: Cover picture Talo Martin