Hardest trad flash? Peter Whittaker climbs La Fuerza de la Gravedad (8b)

Crack specialist Peter Whittaker manages the flash ascent of the classic La Fuerza de la Gravedad (8b) by Carlos Logroño Viscasillas in Spain. Even if the wide boy "only" classifies the line as 8b soft thanks to the new beta, it is still one of the toughest flash ascents of a trad route.

"It's not common to find cracks like this in limestone," enthuses Pete Whittaker. They are often not shaped correctly or have a lot of handles. La Fuerza de la Gravedad (8b) in Vadiello, Spain, is an exception in this respect. The roof crack was up to the free inspection of Carlos Logrono Viscasillas overcome in September 2017 in technical climbing (A2).

For Pete Whittaker Reason enough to pay a visit to the Trad line and achieve one of his toughest flash ascents in this climbing style in a 35-minute struggle.

Why cracks are suitable for flash inspections

"I always find it difficult to flash physically hard trad lines," says Pete Whittaker. Because with the degree of difficulty, the danger often increases, or the placement of the fuses can become more complicated.

However, crack climbing offers a fantastic opportunity to advance into the harder trad grades (8b/8b+/8c/8c+) without the to increase, which is perfect for onsight and flash attempts.»

Pete Whittaker

What it takes for high-end trad routes

Pete Whittaker has climbed some of the most physically challenging trad routes in the world over the course of his climbing career, including Recovery Drink (8c+), Lamb of God (8c), Century Crack (8c) and Cobra Crack (8c). Together with Tom Randall, he wanted to find out what it takes to be able to climb traditional routes in the ninth French degree.

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Talo Martin

News

Seb Berthe repeats Trad masterpiece Bon Voyage (9a)

Seb Berthe secures the third ascent of Bon Voyage in Annot, probably the most difficult trad route in the world.

Elias Iagnemma climbs Burden of Dreams (9A)

Elias Iagnemma repeats Burden of Dreams in Lappnor and secures the fourth ascent of the world's first 9A boulder.

16 peaks, 110 km, 11850 m altitude: Benjamin Védrine's K2 preparation is in full swing

Benjamin Védrines completes the circumnavigation of the Serre-Chevalier valley in the heart of the French Alps within two days.

Old master Dai Koyamada releases the hardest project of his life: Yugen (8C/8C+)

8C/8C+ Boulder at the age of 47: The Japanese climbing legend Dai Koyamada opens a new mega line with Yugen.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

Seb Berthe repeats Trad masterpiece Bon Voyage (9a)

Seb Berthe secures the third ascent of Bon Voyage in Annot, probably the most difficult trad route in the world.

Elias Iagnemma climbs Burden of Dreams (9A)

Elias Iagnemma repeats Burden of Dreams in Lappnor and secures the fourth ascent of the world's first 9A boulder.

16 peaks, 110 km, 11850 m altitude: Benjamin Védrine's K2 preparation is in full swing

Benjamin Védrines completes the circumnavigation of the Serre-Chevalier valley in the heart of the French Alps within two days.