Marco Müller: "Oblivion (9a) was a mental struggle" | Video

The Swiss climber Marco Müller secures the second ascent of the 9a route Oblivion in Gimmelwald. Alex Rohr first climbed this line in autumn 2022 after his successful trip to Norway.

Gimmelwald in the Bernese Oberland stands for tough sport climbing routes. Had one of these Alex tube 2022 with the Combination of Alpenbitter and Renardo Rules brought to life: Oblivion (9a). Marco Müller was able to score the line recently and thus secure the second ascent.

Video: This is how Marco Müller climbs Oblivion (9a)

I'm super happy that I was able to climb the route to Alex Rohr in second place.

Marco Müller

Oblivion (9a) becomes a mental game

However, the first repetition of the line was not an easy game for him, says Marco Müller. On the contrary: "I had to invest quite a lot of work." After he fell out several times at the end of the four-move crux, the mental game began.

"The relief was all the greater when I was finally able to make the last key move and climb the route." According to Marco Müller, the crux of Oblivion lies in the traverse between the 8c+/9a route Alpenbitter and the 8c/8c+ line Renardo Rules. And this traverse has it all: tricky heelhocks, bad finger holes and complex body positions await.

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

Don't miss anything - receive our newsletter

* Indicates required
Interests

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Marco Müller

News

00:18:21

Projecting at the limit and the possibility of failure

Stefano Ghisolfi shows what it means to plan the hardest sport climbing route and the hardest boulder in the world.

Aidan Roberts climbs two potential 9A boulders

Two new 9A boulders? Aidan Roberts was the first to climb two extremely hard boulders that have the potential to be of the highest difficulty.

Seb Bouin climbs new 9b with a “20 meter hardcore finish”

9b first ascent: Seb Bouin releases his project Les Rois du Lithium - an endurance hammer with a 20 meter finish that has it all.

SAC Youth Climbing Cup Bouldering Baden | Live stream

This Saturday, April 27th, the SAC Youth Climbing Cup in bouldering will take place in Bouba Baden. Finals are available in the live stream.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

00:18:21

Projecting at the limit and the possibility of failure

Stefano Ghisolfi shows what it means to plan the hardest sport climbing route and the hardest boulder in the world.

Aidan Roberts climbs two potential 9A boulders

Two new 9A boulders? Aidan Roberts was the first to climb two extremely hard boulders that have the potential to be of the highest difficulty.

Seb Bouin climbs new 9b with a “20 meter hardcore finish”

9b first ascent: Seb Bouin releases his project Les Rois du Lithium - an endurance hammer with a 20 meter finish that has it all.