Marco Müller: "Oblivion (9a) was a mental struggle" | Video

The Swiss climber Marco Müller secures the second ascent of the 9a route Oblivion in Gimmelwald. Alex Rohr first climbed this line in autumn 2022 after his successful trip to Norway.

Gimmelwald in the Bernese Oberland stands for tough sport climbing routes. Had one of these Alex tube 2022 with the Combination of Alpenbitter and Renardo Rules brought to life: Oblivion (9a). Marco Müller was able to score the line recently and thus secure the second ascent.

Video: This is how Marco Müller climbs Oblivion (9a)

I'm super happy that I was able to climb the route to Alex Rohr in second place.

Marco Müller

Oblivion (9a) becomes a mental game

However, the first repetition of the line was not an easy game for him, says Marco Müller. On the contrary: "I had to invest quite a lot of work." After he fell out several times at the end of the four-move crux, the mental game began.

"The relief was all the greater when I was finally able to make the last key move and climb the route." According to Marco Müller, the crux of Oblivion lies in the traverse between the 8c+/9a route Alpenbitter and the 8c/8c+ line Renardo Rules. And this traverse has it all: tricky heelhocks, bad finger holes and complex body positions await.

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

Don't miss anything - receive our newsletter

* Indicates required
Interests

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Marco Müller

News

00:21:19

Concentrated girl power and training tips from Erin McNeice and Jana Svecova

They couldn't be more different: competitive climber Erin McNeice and outdoor boulderer Jana Svecova. Lattice Training accompanied the two during their training.
00:10:53

9A boulder: Video of The Big Slamm now online | Elias Iagnemma

At the beginning of the year, Elias Iagnemma climbed the boulder The Big Slamm (9A) in Tintorale, Abruzzo. In this video, Iagnemma shows his ascent and explains the individual passages of the boulder.

Adam Ondra cracks 9A boulder Soudain Seul | Fontainebleau

Adam Ondra announces the successful ascent of the boulder Soudain...

“That was an absolute game changer for me” – Megos on breathing exercises

For around four years, breathing exercises have played a key role in the everyday life of top climber Alexander Megos. In this video, he reveals how breathing exercises help him climb better.
00:21:19

Concentrated girl power and training tips from Erin McNeice and Jana Svecova

They couldn't be more different: competitive climber Erin McNeice and outdoor boulderer Jana Svecova. Lattice Training accompanied the two during their training.
00:10:53

9A boulder: Video of The Big Slamm now online | Elias Iagnemma

At the beginning of the year, Elias Iagnemma climbed the boulder The Big Slamm (9A) in Tintorale, Abruzzo. In this video, Iagnemma shows his ascent and explains the individual passages of the boulder.

Adam Ondra cracks 9A boulder Soudain Seul | Fontainebleau

Adam Ondra announces the successful ascent of the Soudain Seul boulder in Fontainebleau. Ondra is unsure about the level of difficulty. Details about the ascent in the video interview. He wanted to...