At the end of May, the Czech professional alpinist Marek Holecek and his rope partner Radoslav Groh opened a new route called “Heavenly Trap” in the alpine style on the north-west face of the Baruntse (7162m) in Nepal.

Holecek, who climbed two Piolets d'Or, the Oscar of mountain sports, with his climbing partner Zdenek Hak in 2017 and 2019, had the idea for the new route on the Baruntse. Compared to the normal route over the south ridge, Marek Holecek and Radoslav Groh had to cross a two-kilometer wall to reach the summit.

In my life I have never done a more difficult tour in the mountains than Heavenly Trap on the Baruntse.

Marec Holecek
The route from Heavenly Trap in the north-west face of the Baruntse. (Photo by Marek Holecek)

Blocked for several days at almost 7000 meters

The two Czech climbers got caught in a hurricane on the summit of Baruntse in eastern Nepal. For four days they were stuck in gale-force gusts and heavy snowfall at 7000 meters.

Impressions from the Heavenly Trap route in the Baruntse Northwest Face

For a long time it was uncertain whether they would ever escape the clutches of the storm again. As if by a miracle, they finally managed to descend, despite the high risk of avalanches. They were on the mountain for a total of ten days.

The heavily bumped Marek Holecek after returning from the Baruntse

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Credits: Pictures Marek Holecek