The Italian professional climber Michael Piccolruaz secures the second repetition of Alasha - at the end of his trip to Mallorca. The Kingline by veteran Chris Sharma is considered the most difficult deep water solo route in the world.
Last try, best try. As is often the case in climbing, you score points Michael Piccolruz in Alasha at the last minute. In Chris Sharma's DWS test piece at Port de Soller he manages to climb through in just the last attempt of his Mallorca trip. Michael Piccolruaz is after Jakob Schubert only the second climber to repeat this line.
Interview with Michael Piccolruaz after the ascent of Alasha
The crowning achievement of a successful DSW trip
Michael Piccolruaz, Jernej Kruder & Friends spent a good two weeks in the Psicobloc Mecca Mallorca to tackle the island's most difficult routes. Initially, however, conditions in Alasha did not look promising. Heat and humid humidity created a texture on the handles that Kruder described as follows:
If you put motor oil on the grips and this corresponds to a grip of 0, then we are currently at a 1, at most a 2
Jernej Kruder
Video: Michael Piccolruaz climbs DWS-Kingline Alasha
That's why they had some fun in Cala Estreta, where Michael Piccolruaz and Jernej Kruder enjoyed one of the rare repetitions of the Ethan Pringle line Inconvenient Roof (8a+/b) secured. In addition, they opened several new lines in the impressive roof, including Mia Julia (8a), Caro Line (7c) and a 7b, currently without a route name.
Climbing Inconvenient Roof was probably one of the best moments I've had deep water soloing so far. Complete focus, full throttle, but also pretty much at the limit.
Michel Piccolruaz
When the crew later returned to Port de Soller, a lot of things seemed to fit together in Alasha for Michael Piccolruaz. Two days ago the Italian published a video with a promising attempt. His side note that he climbed practically the entire bouldering section with wet fingertips gave an idea of what would follow on his last attempt the next day.
The breakthrough is announced: Piccolruaz in his most promising go
That might interest you
- Jakob Schubert: "The hottest climbing trip of my life"
- Chris Sharma on Deep Water Soloing Expedition
Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.