Michael Piccolruaz repeats Sharma-Kingline Alasha | including video interview

The Italian professional climber Michael Piccolruaz secures the second repetition of Alasha - at the end of his trip to Mallorca. The Kingline by veteran Chris Sharma is considered the most difficult deep water solo route in the world.

Last try, best try. As is often the case in climbing, you score points Michael Piccolruz in Alasha at the last minute. In Chris Sharma's DWS test piece at Port de Soller he manages to climb through in just the last attempt of his Mallorca trip. Michael Piccolruaz is after Jakob Schubert only the second climber to repeat this line.

Interview with Michael Piccolruaz after the ascent of Alasha

The crowning achievement of a successful DSW trip

Michael Piccolruaz, Jernej Kruder & Friends spent a good two weeks in the Psicobloc Mecca Mallorca to tackle the island's most difficult routes. Initially, however, conditions in Alasha did not look promising. Heat and humid humidity created a texture on the handles that Kruder described as follows:

If you put motor oil on the grips and this corresponds to a grip of 0, then we are currently at a 1, at most a 2

Jernej Kruder

Video: Michael Piccolruaz climbs DWS-Kingline Alasha

That's why they had some fun in Cala Estreta, where Michael Piccolruaz and Jernej Kruder enjoyed one of the rare repetitions of the Ethan Pringle line Inconvenient Roof (8a+/b) secured. In addition, they opened several new lines in the impressive roof, including Mia Julia (8a), Caro Line (7c) and a 7b, currently without a route name.

Climbing Inconvenient Roof was probably one of the best moments I've had deep water soloing so far. Complete focus, full throttle, but also pretty much at the limit.

Michel Piccolruaz

When the crew later returned to Port de Soller, a lot of things seemed to fit together in Alasha for Michael Piccolruaz. Two days ago the Italian published a video with a promising attempt. His side note that he climbed practically the entire bouldering section with wet fingertips gave an idea of ​​what would follow on his last attempt the next day.

The breakthrough is announced: Piccolruaz in his most promising go

That might interest you

Don't miss anything - receive our newsletter

* Indicates required
Interests

News

How is artificial intelligence changing the sport of climbing?

Whether in training or route setting, for climbing gym operators or amateur athletes: We have looked at some examples of how artificial intelligence is currently shaping climbing, what might come in the future and what advantages and risks are involved.

Warming up on the rock: This is how Alexander Megos does it.

On a trip away from Bleu and Ticino, it's often just you and your project. No warm-up boulders and easy routes in sight. Professional climber Alexander Megos explained to us how best to prepare your fingers and body for such situations. He always keeps two things in his car for this purpose – a yoga mat and a fingerboard. Here he explains how he uses both.

Messner tours Germany: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt

Reinhold Messner will embark on a lecture tour starting in October: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt, four different programs. From "Nanga Parbat" to "World Mountains – The 4th Dimension". Tickets are available through Eventim.

New sole instead of a new shoe: the time to resole

The right time to get climbing shoes resoled is sooner than you might think: when there's about one millimeter of sole left. Honestly, nobody measures it, but how do I know when I should get my shoes resoled, and where can I even do that?

How is artificial intelligence changing the sport of climbing?

Whether in training or route setting, for climbing gym operators or amateur athletes: We have looked at some examples of how artificial intelligence is currently shaping climbing, what might come in the future and what advantages and risks are involved.

Warming up on the rock: This is how Alexander Megos does it.

On a trip away from Bleu and Ticino, it's often just you and your project. No warm-up boulders and easy routes in sight. Professional climber Alexander Megos explained to us how best to prepare your fingers and body for such situations. He always keeps two things in his car for this purpose – a yoga mat and a fingerboard. Here he explains how he uses both.

Messner tours Germany: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt

Reinhold Messner will embark on a lecture tour starting in October: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt, four different programs. From "Nanga Parbat" to "World Mountains – The 4th Dimension". Tickets are available through Eventim.