The French climber Seb Bouin managed the second ascent of the endurance monster Move in Flatanger. Move (9b / 9b +) is one of the heaviest routes in the world. The route was first extended to 2013 by Adam Ondra.
The route consists of two 9a routes. The first part extends over 45 meters in overhanging and persistent terrain. After that, an 10 meter bouldering spot is waiting to be hit.
"The first 9a section can tire you so much that you lack the explosive power for the bouldering area. To be able to score the route, you have to be able to climb the first 9a without any problems. "Seb Bouin on the climb route Move (9b / 9b +)
For Seb BouinIf you have already climbed several dozen routes between 9a and 9a + / 9b, configuring Move was a logical next step.
"The route felt completely impossible for me six years ago. But it was the perfect challenge. "
When Seb Bouin first started working on Move seriously, he could not climb the upper second part of the route. He doubted and even considered throwing the beggar back. Fortunately, he decided differently. Back in France he trained specifically indoor as well as on the rock.
"The plan worked. On my second trip to Norway, I was able to climb the upper part of the route on the second day. "
Nevertheless, it still did not work out with the complete boarding. Several times flew Seb Bouin back to Norway. Determination and mental endurance have paid off. With the redpoint walk Seb not only manages the first repetition of the route, but also the ascent of the most difficult route for him to date.
These routes scored Seb Bouin until now
- Mamichula (9b) - Oliana
- Les yeux plus gros que l'antre (9b, soft) - Russan
- papichulo (9a +) - Oliana
- Pachamama (9a +) - Oliana
- La côte d'usure (9a +) - Verdon
- La Rambla (9a +) - Siurana
- ... and six other 9a + and 21 9a routes
The film about the projecting phase in Move
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Raphael Fourau