The Belgian Sébastien Berthe secures the first repetition of the multi-pitch route Arco Iris (8c +, 200m) near Montserrat, Spain.

The Belgian has already made many reports Sébastien Berthe, mostly in connection with climbing difficult multi-pitch routes. He has already climbed a large number of classics in the Alps, including Silbergeier, The Emperor's New Clothes or Nice view. Again and again, however, he also caused negative hits, for example through his action on the Eiger (Actiontalk TV reported) or the devaluation of old classics (LACRUX reported).

Arco Iris is (almost) spared from devaluation

In the case of his most recent ascent, the multi-pitch route Rainbow, he confirms the level of difficulty for once. At least in the case of the most difficult pitch (8c +). The other difficult pitches are rated too hard, says Sébastien. Nevertheless, Seb describes the route as the most difficult multi-pitch route of his career - and that means something.

Arco Iris is certainly the most difficult multi-pitch tour I have ever climbed. Physically and mentally challenging.

Sébastien Berthe

The Technotour becomes the Arco Iris alpine sport climbing route

Arco Iris is a techno tour by Armand Ballart and German Folch from 1979, which mostly runs along an edge. It was one of the last techno routes not yet freely climbed in the Montserrat-Area. In consultation with the first-time climbers, Edu added a few bolts to the route so that they could climb the tour freely.

The Arco Iris route is divided into six pitches over 200 meters. Edu Marin suggested the following difficulties for the individual pitches after the first free ascent of the rloute:

  • Pitch length 1: 6
  • Pitch length 2: 6c
  • Pitch 3: 8b +
  • Pitch length 4: 8c +
  • Pitch length 5: 8b
  • Pitch length 6: 8a +

Teaser video by Edu Marin in Arco Iris

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Credits: Cover picture Julia Cassou