World record: Chinese Yunxi Chen climbs 8b + at the age of eight

With her ascent of China Climbs near Yangshuo, Yunxi Chen set a new record: She is the youngest person to redpoint a grade 8b+ sport climbing route.

They are getting younger and younger, the climbers of difficult sport climbing routes. Ashima Shiraishi, Adam Ondra or Illya Bakhmet-Smolensky, they all scored 8c routes at the age of 11, Theo pale even at 10 years. The latter scored his first 9a route at age 12.

The eight-year-old Chinese climbed not 8c, but 8b+ Yunxi Chen in White Mountain near Yangshuo. She managed the red point ascent of the 30 meter long and overhanging route China Climbs. With her ascent on November 19, 2022, Chen ousted her compatriot Ziheng Qiu from the podium.

Yunxi Chen in the climbing hall. (Picture Evolv Sports)
Yunxi Chen in the climbing hall. (Picture Evolv Sports)

Qiu secured an entry in the Guinness Book of World Records on January 7th this year when she scored the same route at the age of nine.

Video about the previous record holder Ziheng Qiu

That might interest you

+ + +
Credits: Cover picture EvolvSports

News

Jakob Schubert repeats “DNA” – the first confirmed 9c in climbing history

Hundreds of spectators watched as the Tyrolean climber clipped the anchor of Seb Bouin's "DNA" in the Verdon Gorge. With his live ascent, Schubert created a climbing moment that will go down in history – as the first repeat of a 9c route, currently the highest grade in sport climbing.

World Cups, World Championships & Olympic Qualification | World Climbing presents its 2027 season calendar

2027 will be an important year for competition – with qualification for the 2028 Olympic and Paralympic Games, a World Championship in the Czech Republic and a full World Cup calendar in bouldering, lead, speed and para climbing.

Hard Sends: Sébastien Bouin on the first ascent of “Le Chant des Muses” (9b)

In April 2026, Bouin successfully completed his project "Le Chant des Muses" on the Romeyer Wall in the Drôme region. A film by Black Diamond shows the exceptional French climber behind the scenes and his journey to the successful ascent.

Silvan Schüpbach: New, wild climbing route in the Bernese Oberland

Silvan Schüpbach and Janluca Kostner have made the first complete free climb of "Untergang der Titanen" (8a) on the north face of the Gross Wellhorn. The 600-meter route in the Bernese Alps remains consistently difficult over its 20 pitches.

Jakob Schubert repeats “DNA” – the first confirmed 9c in climbing history

Hundreds of spectators watched as the Tyrolean climber clipped the anchor of Seb Bouin's "DNA" in the Verdon Gorge. With his live ascent, Schubert created a climbing moment that will go down in history – as the first repeat of a 9c route, currently the highest grade in sport climbing.

World Cups, World Championships & Olympic Qualification | World Climbing presents its 2027 season calendar

2027 will be an important year for competition – with qualification for the 2028 Olympic and Paralympic Games, a World Championship in the Czech Republic and a full World Cup calendar in bouldering, lead, speed and para climbing.

Hard Sends: Sébastien Bouin on the first ascent of “Le Chant des Muses” (9b)

In April 2026, Bouin successfully completed his project "Le Chant des Muses" on the Romeyer Wall in the Drôme region. A film by Black Diamond shows the exceptional French climber behind the scenes and his journey to the successful ascent.