Almost unnoticed, numerous new climbing routes, even a new area, have been opened up on the Äscher Nord in recent years. The driving force behind this is Renzo Ghisla, who comes from the region. Incidentally, with the sport climbing route “Das Geheu im Nadelhaufen” (2 SL, 7a / 8a) by Simon Riediker, the first 8a was climbed in Alpstein rotpunkt.
The numerous routes on small strips and holes along the south wall of the limestone are known to many. Correspondingly many climbers arrive on beautiful autumn or even winter days there to indulge in the vertical. Often you climb on the limestone thanks to the southern exposure despite the first snow in the meadows still in the T-shirt.
Climbing on the Äscher North Face / Gartenalp
As beautiful as it is in the autumn or winter on the well-known southern wall of the limestone, so relentlessly does the sun burn in the summer months on the scratchy little strips. For some time now there is a top alternative: the north side of the limewer above the Gartenalp. Renzo Ghisla and other people from the region provided new, extremely rewarding routes in countless hours and days. The result is an ingenious area that is spared from the sun in the summer months until the afternoon.
First 8a of the Alpstein
For aspirants of difficult routes, it is therefore important that the bars, slopers and side grips have the right friction, i.e. that they are protected from the sun. Perhaps that is the reason why the first 8a route in Alpstein rotpunkt was climbed on Äscher Nord. It is about the route “Das Gehäu im Nadelhaufen” by Simon Riediker. That it is the first red point climbed 8a in the Alpstein is the information that was brought to LACRUX.
Topo limber north (Gartenalp)
But now for the exciting part. The topo of the new area was kindly provided to LACRUX by Renzo Ghisla.