The ring bands (Ligamenti anularia) are heavily loaded, passive structures, especially when we raise our fingers when climbing. Accordingly, climbers often injure the ring bands. In today's post, Klaus Isele explains what the symptoms and reasons are and how you can prevent injuries.
An article by Klaus Isele – sports osteopath, physiotherapist, chiropractor and sports climbing trainer
The function of the ring bands
The annular ligaments (ring ligaments) are heavily stressed, passive structures, especially when we curl our fingers while climbing. Finger flexion is achieved via two large muscles whose contractile parts originate approximately at the elbow. Long tendons then transmit the force to the finger joints. My experience in finger therapy shows that in climbing-related finger problems, the annular ligaments are actually affected in only about one-third of cases.
When does a ring band injury occur?
The most common occurrence of a ring band tear is when a full finger (e.g. ring finger) is placed under maximum load eccentric force come in addition.
Here's an example:
You are hanging from a small ledge with your right hand fully extended. As you attempt to pull yourself up using your right foot and hand, the small ledge suddenly gives way. This causes an eccentric overload of an already fully stressed annular ligament, resulting in a rupture.
The second most common risk is concentric overload. Simplely explains: You crimp as much as you can and try to pull up dynamically. This leads to the typical snap and the ring band is off.
Sign of a ligament injury
A story I've heard quite often in my practice: "It was my last chance, I was so close to completing my project, so I skipped the two rest days to give it my all on the very last day of my vacation." As a climber, I completely understand, but as an osteopath, I have to say that this is where the greatest risks arise. Especially when combined with group dynamics, we quickly overlook the first warning signs, which have already surfaced a few times, such as:
- Slight finger pain after climbing / bouldering
- Areas of attachment of muscle groups of the arms hurt a little
- Coordinative fatigue
- Longer swelling of the fingers after the units than usual
Symptoms of a ligament injury
- Pain in the affected area
- swelling in the affected area
- Popping sound: When a pulley ruptures, it often produces a loud "snap," a usually widely audible "pop," or a sound as if something is breaking. Sometimes it is accompanied by a grinding or scratching noise. In such cases, other structures are frequently affected; it may be a partial rupture.
- BowstringThe loss of one or more annular ligaments leads to the "bowstringing phenomenon." This "tendon lifting" is the typical leading symptom of a pulley rupture. This phenomenon can be detected by palpation performed by an experienced physiotherapist. It is also possible to measure the distance between the tendon and the bone using ultrasound or by comparing the left and right sides with calipers.
This is how you prevent a ring ligament injury
Be smart and know when enough is enough! Group dynamics are good for training, but can be dangerous. Furthermore, an individually tailored warm-up and cool-down program is essential.
Warm up: Find your personal warm-up routine. Do you need a particularly long time to warm up? Then take your time! Do you get tired after 50 minutes, and does your focus and coordination start to wane? Then adjust your time frame.
Cool down: Gradually reduce the weight you built up during your workout. I recommend stretching afterward and then having a small snack. Take advantage of the glycogen window. A yogurt drink and a banana are particularly good choices. Liquids are absorbed quickly, and the sugar, a little fat, and protein with minerals help you relax your muscles (plasticizers, ATP) and quickly replenish your glycogen stores.
Avoid fully erect finger positions: Depending on the climbing area, it's sometimes impossible to avoid using your fingers for handstands. Therefore, it's helpful if your fingers are accustomed to this. However, you should avoid practicing on the smallest crimps at the end of a session.
Do not climb when fatigued: You become fatigued when your coordination skills decline. A boulder problem that you normally complete could serve as a reference point.
Stop if you experience pain!
Beware of rapid progression in difficulty level: Tendons and ligaments develop more slowly than muscles. It's true that muscles can build up very quickly, while passive structures like tendons and ligaments take considerably longer. Specific strength training should follow the training for acquiring technical skills. Learning coordination and movement patterns is an important part of the training. In this process, the annular ligaments are not pushed to their limits.
This is how professionals like Adam Ondra, Janja Garnbret and Akiyo Noguchi warm up
About Klaus Isele
Klaus Isele, MSc DO, is a climber, physiotherapist, osteopath, chiropractor, state-certified sport climbing trainer, and worked with the Austrian national climbing team for ten years. He also coached for two years. Adam Ondra, whom he helped, among other things, to climb the first 9c.
Klaus runs the practice Therapierbar in Vorarlberg and has been teaching the Isele method for treating climbing-related finger problems for seven years now.
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Credits: Cover image: Reinhard Fichtinger
This article by Klaus Isele was originally published on Lacrux.com in June 2020.
It has now been re-uploaded in a revised version.