On the way to the Mammut team meeting, Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert made a stop in the Lorüns climbing area in Vorarlberg. Their goal: to flash explosives on the Kammerlander line. This didn't work out, but both climbed the line on the second attempt.

Wo Beat Kammerlander says on it, Beat Kammerlander is also in it. This applies to explosive (9a) as well as for other classics of the climbing veteran. The climbing couple got the first free ascent and the first repetition of the sport climbing route explosives Jacopo Larcher and Babsi Zangerl. Furnished a few days ago Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert paid a visit to the route and tried to flash climb the route.

This is how Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert climb explosives

Almost Flash with the support of Babsi Zangerl

In their flash attempts in Loruns the two were able to fall back on the support of local heroine Babsi Zangerl. "Babsi did the impressive second ascent of Sprengstoff and was kind enough to mark the line with chalk and give us beta," enthuses Jakob Schubert. Unfortunately, both Ondra and Schubert then missed the flash ascent - albeit only just.

"I fell in one of the last moves of the first part of the boulder," says Adam Ondra. The route will then be easier, but will remain brutally persistent. Jakob Schubert was also thrown out at the same point when he attempted to flash the route. But the third and fourth ascent of explosives didn't have to wait long. First Ondra fought his way to the deflector on the second attempt, followed a little later by Schubert's successful ascent.

On their flying visit to Lorüns, the duo also attempted the onsight ascent of Dirty Harry's Brother (8c+). However, it remained an unsuccessful, albeit promising, attempt. Adam Ondra managed to reach the deflector on the second attempt, Jakob Schubert fell shortly before.

Route name as an allusion

Sprengstoff (9a) on the Lorünser Wändle was set up by Beat Kammerlander more than 25 years ago. Numerous climbers had tried it in the past quarter century and had bitten their teeth. Then, in December 2020, Jacopo Larcher succeeded in “Lorünser project" to free.

With the naming, Jacopo is making an allusion to the fact that all sectors are located on the property of Steinbruch Lorüns GmbH and that there was meanwhile fear that the sectors might fall victim to the work of the company.

The company recently submitted a so-called clearance application, which made the local climbing scene sit up and take notice. According to the latest information, the climbing sectors and thus routes will remain in place for at least the next 15 years. 

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Credits: Cover picture Jakob Schubert