Adam Ondra can often be found in Arco lately, projecting difficult lines with Stefano Ghisolfi. On Wednesday he managed the first ascent of his line Bomba (9b). The First Ascent is a foretaste of what could follow when top climbers like Stefano Ghisolfi, Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert push each other.
Just succeeded on the last day of his Arco stay Adam Ondra on Wednesday the first ascent from Bomba (9b). The line drilled by Ondra ten years ago is in the Hotel Olivo sector, just to the right of Trophy dell'Adriatico (9a+).
Video: Adam Ondra at the First Ascent from Bomba (9b)
Ondra says that he actually wanted to prepare the project for his next Arco trip in two weeks. When he got to the rock he felt the conditions were just perfect. "I was very calm but at the same time very motivated to climb."
So he got in with the goal of climbing the second section of the route. After Adam Ondra only fell out on the last train and found that he felt in top shape, he started from the bottom from now on. The first attempt failed at the key point, which requires a lot of precision. The second one was tough: "I rested for 30 minutes and then one of the most epic moments of my climbing life happened," enthuses the top Czech climber.
Adam Ondra suggests a 9b as a rating. The quick success with five days of cleaning and trying out does not justify 9b +. "But I think," says the 29-year-old, "that it's definitely at the top end of the rating scale."
Will Excalibur be the next 9c soon?
At least since Stefano Ghisolfis Video Diary #26 is known that he and Adam Ondra near Arco the route Excalibur project. The two have now succeeded in decoding the individual moves and stringing together individual sequences. Now joins in Jakob Schubert another world-class climber to wrestle the first ascent from Excalibur. Will the next 9c be announced soon?
Video: No pressure for Ghisolfi, only Schubert, Ondra and four cameras are watching
There is no question that the project will be climbed sooner or later. The only question is when this will happen and what grade will be issued for Excalibur. In his video diary, Stefano Ghisolfi says that he and Adam Ondra found a way to start at the best two holds in the middle of the route. From there to the deflector, the Italian estimates the difficulty at 9b. "So you can get some idea of how tough Excalibur is from the bottom up.
Opponents become 9c coalition
For tough projects that no one has tried before, it is essential to try the route with someone, emphasizes Adam Ondra. “More people increase the probability that the best beta, the best sequence will be found.” The same is true of the Excalibur route.
Arco-local Stefano Ghisolfi says that in times like these climbing together with friends from all over the world has an even more important meaning: "Climbing is a special sport where we share experiences and beautiful days with those who are usually competitors. "
Ghisolfi is happy to be able to climb with Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert these days. And the only fight they all want to hear about in the next few days is against Excalibur.
That might interest you
- Now it's official: Adam Ondra is a mammoth athlete
- Jakob Schubert repeats Erebor (9b) - one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in Italy
- Here Jakob Schubert climbs 9b + and 9b in one day
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Credits: Cover photo Alfredo Webber, Video Stefano Ghisolfi: Franz Morandi