The Japanese professional climber Tomoa Narasaki flashes the 8C+ Boulder Gakido in Tohoku and suggests a downgrade to 8B+. Shortly afterwards he also deciphers the seated start of Gakido and names his first ascent Ashurado (8C).
Tomoa Naraski had already proven at the World Championships in Bern that he was one of the world's best boulderers. The 27-year-old Japanese is not only strong on plastic, but also on real rock. In Tohoku he flashed one of the hardest boulders in Japan: Gakido (8C+). If he had confirmed the level of difficulty, his flash ascent would have been a sensation.
As far as difficulty goes, I haven't had the opportunity to try many boulders heavier than 8C. But after speaking with Shinichiro Nomura, we agreed that 8B+ is appropriate for Gakido.
Tomoa Narasaki
The assessment of Ryuichi Murai, who was the first to repeat the boulder in November 2022 and said that Gakido felt easier than other 8C+ boulders before, fits into this devaluation. For Tomoa Narasaki, Gakido is after Decided already the second 8B+ boulder that he was able to flash.
Video: Tomoa Narasaki on the first ascent of Ashurado
As if the flash inspection wasn't enough, Tomoa Narasaki then set about the as yet unresolved seat start of Gakido. And just five attempts later the 8C boulder was there Ashurado born.
I was able to decipher the sit start in two attempts and climb the entire line in the fifth go.
Tomoa Narasaki
That might interest you
- Tips for indoor climbing on volume from Tomoa Narasaki
- One of the hardest flash inspections: Tomoa Narasaki with Decided (8b +)
Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here..
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Tomoa Narasaki