Shauna Coxsey wins at La Pedriza

What a bouldering trip: British professional climber Shauna Coxsey pulls off six boulders of eighth difficulty level in La Pedriza in just four days. She is the first woman to climb the two boulders Fotofobia (8B+) and Wild Wild West (8B).

Shauna Coxsey returns home from a climbing vacation once again with an impressive tick list. In Spanish The Pedriza Within a few days she managed to complete six boulders of the eighth French degree, including Fotofobia (8B+) as well as Wild Wild West (8B) and Pin y Pon (8B).

La Pedriza is totally crazy. With some of the best lines I've ever seen and seemingly endless potential, this place is an absolute must-visit.

Shauna Coxsey

Fast ascent in preferred style

Photophobia, the 8B+ line by Ignacio Sanchez Gonzalez, offers big moves on tiny ledges in an overhanging wall - just like Shauna Coxsey: "It's such an incredible piece of rock and the movements didn't disappoint."

I tried to climb the original line of Nacho, although slightly larger holds were cleaned at the end on the right.

Shauna Coxsey
Wide strokes on fine lasts: Shauna Coxsey in Fotofolia (8B+). Image: Talo Martin | Pedrizaguidebooks.com
Wide strokes on fine lasts: Shauna Coxsey in Fotofobia (8B+). Picture: Talo Martin | Pedrizaguidebooks.com

With Fotofobia, the 31-year-old not only manages the first 8B+ boulder since the birth of her child, but also the first women's ascent of the line. Since it's been a while since she climbed at this grade, Coxsey said she doesn't feel in a position to fully comment on the difficulty level.

I was able to climb Fotofobia fairly quickly, so I'm tempted to say the line is closer to 8B. At the same time, I couldn't imagine a boulder that would suit me better.

Shauna Coxsey

La Pedriza: Area with great potential

During her week-long stay in La Pedriza, the strong Brit also secured the first women's ascent of Wild Wild West (8B) and an ascent of Pin y Pon (8B).

Shauna Coxsey at the first women's ascent of Wild Wild West. Image: Talo Martin | Pedrizaguidebooks.com
Shauna Coxsey at the first women's ascent of Wild Wild West. Picture: Talo Martin | Pedrizaguidebooks.com

After her trip, Shauna Coxsey was quite impressed by the style and potential of the Spanish area. “It’s comparable to Fontainebleau and the holds are mostly small and tricky.” This means that the potential for hard lines is almost endless.

Shauna Coxsey's impressive ticklist

  • Photofobia (8B+)
  • Wild Wild West (8B)
  • Pin y Pon (8B)
  • Katalefas (8A+)
  • Penín's Roof (8A)
  • Far West (8A)

First British woman in bouldering grade 8B+

In 2014, Shauna Coxsey became the first British woman to conquer grade 8B+ with New Base Line in Magic Wood. She focused on competitive climbing until the Tokyo Olympics. After the big event, she focused again on rock climbing. In 2023, after the birth of her child, she bouldered twice at grade 8B.

That might interest you

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Talo Martin | Pedrizaguidebooks.com

News

Last Boulder World Cup of the season in Salt Lake City | Info & Livestream

From October 16th to 18th, the bouldering elite will gather in Salt Lake City, Utah, for the season finale. Who will claim the final title of the season and the overall victory? Find all the information on the current rankings, the starting field, the program, and the live stream.

Pro Climbing League: Season two starts in January in Berlin

The Pro Climbing League (PCL) will enter its second season in 2027: Following the sold-out debut in London, three events will take place in Berlin, Paris and London – with a new two-session format and £50.000 prize money per event.

Jakob Schubert repeats “DNA” – the first confirmed 9c in climbing history

Around 180.000 spectators watched as the Tyrolean climber clipped the anchor of Seb Bouin's "DNA" in the Verdon Gorge. With his live ascent, Schubert created a climbing moment that will go down in history – as the first repeat of a 9c route, currently the highest grade in sport climbing.

World Cups, World Championships & Olympic Qualification | World Climbing presents its 2027 season calendar

2027 will be an important year for competition – with qualification for the 2028 Olympic and Paralympic Games, a World Championship in the Czech Republic and a full World Cup calendar in bouldering, lead, speed and para climbing.

Last Boulder World Cup of the season in Salt Lake City | Info & Livestream

From October 16th to 18th, the bouldering elite will gather in Salt Lake City, Utah, for the season finale. Who will claim the final title of the season and the overall victory? Find all the information on the current rankings, the starting field, the program, and the live stream.

Pro Climbing League: Season two starts in January in Berlin

The Pro Climbing League (PCL) will enter its second season in 2027: Following the sold-out debut in London, three events will take place in Berlin, Paris and London – with a new two-session format and £50.000 prize money per event.

Jakob Schubert repeats “DNA” – the first confirmed 9c in climbing history

Around 180.000 spectators watched as the Tyrolean climber clipped the anchor of Seb Bouin's "DNA" in the Verdon Gorge. With his live ascent, Schubert created a climbing moment that will go down in history – as the first repeat of a 9c route, currently the highest grade in sport climbing.