Six Swiss bouldering areas for warm days

Transianer Michel has picked out six Swiss bouldering areas for you that are suitable for bouldering adventures in the warm months.

A contribution by Michel from Transa Backpacking AG

Magic Wood

Get on the rock: Magic Wood is one of the most famous bouldering areas in the world. With the amazing number of more than 300 boulders in Magic Wood, the variety is also attractive. The boulders range from 4A to 8C+.

The boulders are very close together, which is good for families with older children and groups of friends with a large difference in level. It is best not to go there until May, as otherwise there is likely still snow. There is also a campsite for those who want to stay longer.

Video: some must-do's in Magic Wood between 6b+ and 8a

Brione

Fine rocks can also be found in Brione, in the beautiful Verzasca Valley in the canton of Ticino, the sunniest part of Switzerland. The former insider tip now includes 19 sectors with over 560 boulders. The range extends from 5A to 8C+.

The best time to visit is in spring and autumn. The untouched nature and the beautiful river invite you to linger after climbing. The area is also very popular with families with children. 

Video: brione classic from 6b to 8a+

Gotthard area

Bouldering on the Gotthard: An insider tip among strong boulderers. The climbing area is spread over several sectors, which means that you won't find all the boulders the first few times. On the nearby Susten Pass, bouldering enthusiasts will also find numerous blocks with sharp rock to climb to their heart's content.

You can only climb the Gotthard in summer because the pass is closed until late spring. At an altitude of more than 2 meters, the climbing area on the Gotthard Pass is one of the highest bouldering spots in the Alps, making it an ideal spot for hot days.

Giuliano Cameroni on the first ascent of Hazel Grace sit (8c/+)


Perfect friction thanks to magnesium from FrictionLabs

Everyone probably agrees that temperature and humidity have a major influence on friction on the rock. When it comes to magnesium, however, many climbers hardly give it a thought. Wrongly.

FrictionLab is a magnesium manufacturer trusted by many climbing pros because their near-pure magnesium is more moisture-wicking and less smearing than alternative products.

FrictionLabs Magnesium: Unicorn Dust - Gorilla Grip - Bam Bam
The three types of FrictionLabs Magnesium: Unicorn Dust - Gorilla Grip - Bam Bam (picture FrictionLabs)

FrictionLabs has magnesium in different degrees of fineness in the assortment. The white powder is available in the three variants Unicorn Dust (Ultra fine) Gorilla grip (fine) and Bam Bam  (small pieces of magnesium). For lovers of liquid chalk there is the so-called Secret stuff.


bavona

The Bavona area, also in Ticino, can be climbed all year round. The Bavona Valley is one of the most beautiful Ticino valleys with high slopes and massive boulders that make it one of the steepest and rockiest in the entire Alps. The bouldering elite from all over the world gather here. Since this part is not yet known to the general public, new boulders are constantly being cleared and discovered. Most boulders are between 5C-6C and 8A-9A.

transa-sponsored-bavona
The Val Bavona offers a huge potential of unopened bouldering lines. Image: Alessio Pizzicanella

Blattiswald

The former insider tip is located above the Lauerzersee in the canton of Schwyz and is very easy to reach by public transport or via the nearby motorway. The boulder blocks are spread out a bit, but are easy to find with a bouldering guide. The boulders are in the 4 to 8 area.

transa-sponsored-blattiswald
The boulders in the Blattiswald area range in difficulty from fourth to eighth. Image: Rainer Eder

Kirchenfeld Bridge, Bern

It doesn't always have to be the climbing gym or the mountains: Last but not least, Switzerland is also a great place to climb in urban areas. This is also the case with the Kirchenfeldbrücke, which is located directly on the Aare in Bern. Or the “Blood Tower” at the Lorraine Bridge is easy to climb. This gives you a different climbing experience. After bouldering you can cool down in the Aare. 

Urban climbing at the blood tower directly on the Aare. Image: Rainer Eder
Urban climbing at the blood tower directly on the Aare. Image: Rainer Eder

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Credits: Cover photo Transa Backpacking AG

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