The American Dave Graham is almost a fixture in Ticino. His most recent video shows him inspecting the Giuliano Cameroni line Squalo Bianco (8b +). Also in Ticino, but only for three days, was the German boulderer Florian Wintjes. He managed several highballs and the Kubalik (8b+) and Conquistador direct (8b) lines.
Dave Grahams Inspection of Squalo Bianco (8b+) in Foroglio was already a few weeks ago. Now the American is releasing a video of his ascent. Those of Tessin-Local Giuliano Cameroni developed line knows illustrious repeaters as Jakob Schubert and asked a lot from Dave Graham. During his first attempts, he thought he could sneak a quick ascent of this line. "However, when the boulder was nice and dry and I checked the end, I found that the pull to the last sloper felt particularly hard."
"Since there is no sun here in the depths of winter, the rock felt even colder, which was certainly not ideal for such a long boulder."
Dave Graham
Dave Graham made the first attempts right from the start in sub-zero temperatures. As a result, he reached the last two bars with completely numb fingers. “Normally, there is around -3 °C on the boulder. Since there is no sun here in the depths of winter, the rock felt even colder, which was certainly not ideal for such a long boulder," he says. Accordingly, he reconsidered his tactics and waited for a warmer period. The change in weather then came promptly. The 15 degrees favored by the hair dryer, but quickly became noticeable in the friction.
"The huge change in friction and the feeling of climbing uncleanly and with too many expectations created frustration."
Dave Graham
“There was frustration with the huge shift in friction and feeling like you were climbing uncleanly and with too many expectations,” says Graham. So he broke off the session and just added a few more "Ave Maria attempts". Whether it was the reduced inner tension or even divine providence - a little later the strong American was at the top of the block.
Dave Graham inspecting Squalo Bianco
Florian Wientjes on a highball flying visit
The German climber also stayed in Ticino Florian Wientjes. He spontaneously felt like going to Ticino and therefore set off alone. "Since I currently have an infection in my finger, I can't climb hard either, so I just wanted to be on the road a bit for myself," he says.
His tick list of "being on the road a bit" is quite impressive: Florian Wientjes climbed the three highballs No Picnics (7c+), Embress (7c) and Black Arete (7c). In addition, he gets the inspections of Kubalik (8b+) and Conquistador direct (8b). The real goal of the short trip was the highballs. Wientjes had had this on his radar for a long time, but never got around to looking at it. "And I figured those are good because you don't really have to crimp with your left hand, so I can climb them with my finger."
"And I figured the boulders are good because you don't really have to crimp with your left hand so I can climb them with my finger."
Florian Wientjes
Florian Wientjes likes to go bouldering alone, as he reveals to Lacrux. "Then I can fully concentrate on my own rhythm." When asked what his plans for the future look like, he replies: "Hope that my finger will get better soon so that I can soon be able to boulder hard again. Concrete goals then emerge.”
That might interest you
- Video: Dave Graham on the Ali Hulk Extension Total Sit Start
- Yannick Flohé and Sergei Topishko boulder Off the Wagon low (8c +)
- Fantastic conditions in Ticino: Müller, Marschner and Wientjes successful
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Credits cover photo Dave Graham