Will Bosi's secures first repeat of Burden of Dreams (9A) in Finnish Lappnor. A significant ascent, considering that the first 9A boulder in the world since the first ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016 has flashed the Who's Who of the international bouldering elite.
Five trains that mean the world - at least for Will Bosi. Six and a half years after the first ascent Nalle Hukkataival the Scot creates the first repetition of what is probably the hardest boulder in the world, Burden of Dreams (9A).
«It feels incredible at the moment! I literally flew through the bottom part on the way through and having recently flew off the last hold it all came together this time!»
Will Bosi
Video: Will Bosi in Burden of Dreams - The ascent is emerging
Meticulous preparation pays off
Nalle Hukkataival spent several years of his life helping the Lappnor Project become the 9A Boulder Burden of Dreams. Will Bosi worked a total of 24 days on the line, 14 on site in Finland and XNUMX days at home on the replica.
Of course, these periods of time cannot be directly compared with each other, especially since on a first ascent the question of what is feasible hangs over the climber like the sword of Damocles and the beta has to be laboriously worked out.
However, his rapid success in Burden of Dreams at least suggests that Will Bosi's training on the faithful replica in Sheffield has had its effect. The strong Scotsman recently told us how he thinks about replicas in general.
Video: Will Bosi on training on the Burden of Dreams replica
«Burden of Dreams definitely deserves 9A»
Regarding the assessment of Burden of Dreams, Will Bosi has a clear opinion: The boulder as a whole, from the training on the replica to the actual ascent, is a step forward compared to everything else he has done so far.
«Burden of Dreams is a huge step up from all the 8C/+ I've done. So I think he definitely deserves the 9A!"
Will Bosi
Will Bosi in Boulder Olympus
With his successes in Burden of Dreams and Alphane, Will Bosi is the only climber in the world with two 9A boulders on his tick list alongside Shawn Raboutou (Alphane and Megatron). Although the Belgian Simon Lorenzi has also defeated Alphane, the opinions of the repeaters differ as to whether Soudain Seul corresponds to the difficulty level 9A or not.
That might interest you
- Honey Badger (8C +): Will Bosi's hardest boulder first ascent | Video
- Shawn Raboutou rehearses Burden of Dreams (9A) | Video
- 9b first ascent again: Seb Bouin climbs Ariégeois Cœur Loyal
Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Diego Borello