Swiss climber and Lord of the Rings fan Dimitri Vogt has opened a new route in the Bernese Oberland. He calls the 50-meter-long line on the Isenfluh, which is almost continuously overhanging, "Isengard." Having climbed it himself, he suggests a grade of 9a.
The Iron Fortress in the Bernese Oberland
Isengard is 50m long, about 30m of which are continuously overhanging. Such a long and overhanging route is something special in the region and is more reminiscent of climbing routes in Spain. Vogt discovered the route last summer after friends pointed out to him that there were isenfluh there could still be potential for difficult tours.
Since I have already climbed many of the difficult routes in the region, I am always interested in new opportunities.
Dimitri Vogt
After discovering "Isengard," Vogt says he spent a good five to ten days climbing the wall, finding the route, cleaning the rock, and finding suitable places for bolts. For the 28-year-old from Bern, it was an exciting challenge "not just to repeat a route, but to discover and set it up," he writes. He had probably set a bolt or two before, but hadn't yet drilled a complete line himself. He spent ten days developing and bolting the route, and then it took another ten days until he was able to climb it cleanly on a rainy September day.
Between Isenfluh and Flatanger
The style of the line reminds the former member of the Swiss national teams to climbing in the Norwegian FlatangerIt's steep and physical, but the holds aren't quite as small. The rock structures make it possible to place knee locks in some places, without which "Isengard" would be considerably harder. Spoiler alert: The crux is all about placing a difficult hook, maintaining tension on your feet, applying enough pressure with your hands on the bad slopers, and making a long pull onto a ledge.
I think the overall package of difficult sections with poor to medium-good rests in between, over a length of this size, is what makes it difficult for me.
-Dimitri Vogt
The route is also mentally demanding, says Vogt. As a "gift," an 8a+ awaits at the end of the route, after all the difficult sections up front and the crux. "In this section, it's better not to think too much about how close you are to the goal, but rather focus on climbing and, despite your arms being pumped, stay as relaxed and in the flow as possible," Dimitri gives us as a tip.
As a first-time climber, it's always difficult to estimate the difficulty level. I think the route is around 9a. But I'm happy to be corrected by repeat climbers.
-Dimitri Vogt
You might be interested in:
- Double success: Dimitri Vogt climbs Inferno (9a) and L'histoire sans fin (8SL, 8b+)
- From the climate demonstration to the Rätikon classic: Dimitri Vogt climbs Silbergeier (8b+)
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Credits: Cover picture John Thornton