Remo Schläpfer
Remo Schläpfer

Fabian Buhl climbs Ganesha (8c) at the Loferer Steinplatte

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The aspiring German alpinist Fabian Buhl manages the first free ascent of the multi-pitch tour Ganesha (8c) at the Loferer Steinplatte in Austria.

After Fabian Buhl was the first to tour Alexander Huber Nirvana (8c +, 7 pitches), the German alpinist looked for a new free line on the Loferer Steinplatte - and found it right next to Nirwana.

Fabian Buhl in ground-up solo style

Fabian did not climb the tough multi-pitch tour with a rope partner, but alone. He developed his own system to secure himself in the tour, which is secured with only four bolts, yes four (!) He secured himself with a 9.2mm rope and a combination of chest strap and grigri. He reattached the fuses during the red point ascent, so he did not leave the friends on their placements during a previous attempt. That's not good for him, says Fabian in an interview with Bergsteiger. For the first ascent, Fabian needed 4 days in autumn 2015 and was 12 days to clean the wall. After two attempts he succeeded in the red point ascent of the super beautiful line! See for yourself in the video.


Credits: picture screenshot

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Silvan Schüpbach: New, wild climbing route in the Bernese Oberland

Editors -
Silvan Schüpbach and Janluca Kostner have made the first complete free climb of "Untergang der Titanen" (8a) on the north face of the Gross Wellhorn. The 600-meter route in the Bernese Alps remains consistently difficult over its 20 pitches.
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Editors -
Eneko and Iker Pou have free climbed "Vicios Ocultos" (7c, 285 m) on Tiro Pedabejo in the Picos de Europa for the first time, one year after the Basque brothers had opened the six pitches themselves.
Read more

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Editors -
Scarpa spent six years developing their new climbing shoe. At its heart is the Italian company's first carbon-reinforced midsole – built for precision on the smallest footholds, without the shoe needing to fit brutally tightly.
Read more

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