Vorarlberg's Nemuel Feurle repeats in Sardinia, more precisely on the high walls of the Gala di Gorruppu, what is probably the most famous multi-pitch tour on the island and most popular with strong climbers: Hotel Supramonte (400m, 8b).
There are seven pitches in the 7a+ to 7c range and three pitches in the 8a+/8b range Hotel Supramonte to climb through. Nemuel Feurle had been dreaming of attempting this iconic route since his first multi-pitch route. On the 4th/5th In January he was able to realize his dream and climb the line of Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani.
An experience report from Nemuel Feurle
After our first day (December 31.12st) in Hotel Supramonte was pretty cold and damp and we only made it over the first four pitches, my expectations weren't very high.
We started the new year with a little sport climbing and a nice, comfortable multi-pitch stretch right by the sea and a subsequent day of rest. On January 4.01th we started early in the morning at sunrise (7:30). We opted for the shorter, steeper but more direct approach and arrived at the entrance after a good hour.
Better than hoped
Right on the first pitch I felt that the rock was neither damp nor cold. So we climbed the first two pitches quite motivated and arrived at the first key pitch. Without much expectation, but with the background that I spent the first three days of the new year visualizing exactly the first few meters of this key length, I gave it a try.
Neither during bouldering nor in my imagination did I climb the lower key point as precisely and “loosely” as I did in this attempt.
Nemuel Feurle
After I was able to successfully climb over the crux, all it took was a mega fight and a few minutes later I clipped the belay - slightly perplexed, confused and at the same time pleased that I had done it. However, I couldn't yet imagine what I and especially my rope partner Lea Kempf would have to endure in order to score points on all pitches.
Pitch four followed: another difficult, steep pitch that we already knew. Without hesitation I gave it a try. After a real fight and a risky snap on the top handle, I was able to climb this length straight away.
Harder than expected
The fifth and final key pitch was new territory, but luckily it was a short pitch in which the difficulty extended over three quickdraws.
I tried an onsight go, but quickly realized that it needed a lot more power.
Nemuel Feurle
After I had bouldered out a solution, two unsuccessful attempts followed. I decided on a new beta - high right foot - so I could press the knee into a sloper, making the long pull into a hole more stable and safe.
It was only on the fifth attempt that I managed to get over the key train, but I was unable to climb through the next trains. I flew. I hung. Not again, I thought. On the 6th attempt I realized that there would be no time left for a day's ascent, even if that was never the intention, especially not on that day.
At the same time, I was aware that I couldn't and didn't want to fall into the rope again.
Nemuel Feurle
So I did what might make me a good, strategic climber. I analyzed, visualized and then climbed the fifth pitch.
Check-in at Hotel Supramonte
It was now half past four o'clock. We still had 4 hours of sunlight and 2 unknown pitches that separated us from the top of the Hotel Supramonte. We reached the Grand Hotel Supramonte just before five and made the very smart decision to end our day with a small hummus bread, sitting/lying on our climbing ropes and wrapped in an emergency rescue blanket.
We spent about 14 dark, cold and long hours - imaginable - without much sleep *Grand Hotel.
Nemuel Feurle
For breakfast we each had half a hummus bread as we were short on food as we didn't expect to spend a night in this wall.
Dream becomes reality
Overtired, hypoglycemic, but still with a pretty big smile, we climbed out the last pitches of the Hotel Supramonte on January 05.01th.
Since my first multi-pitch, I've dreamed of attempting this iconic route. Now even scoring them is pretty cool!
Nemuel Feurle
The greater your joy and memories of this incredible route! Thank you Lea, for securing, persevering and motivating!
That might interest you
- Video about Nemuel Feurles's Ascension of Principle Hope
- Nemuel Feurle climbs the principle of hope at the age of 16 years
+ + +
Credits: Cover photo and article images Nemuel Feurle and Lea Kempf