Czech climber Pepa Šindel has climbed his ninth 9a route, the legendary Action Directe in the Northern Franconian Jura. At 17, he is one of the younger, but not the youngest, climbers of the iconic route, which Wolfgang Güllich first climbed to its grade in 1991.
17-year-old Josef "Pepa" Šindel has already achieved too much to call himself a "young climber." At 13, the Czech climber climbed his first 8c, and today he has climbed eleven routes ranging from 9a to 9a+—all in the last two years.
Nevertheless, the Action Directe (9a) for Šindel not just any other 9a. The famous route, drilled by Milan Sykora and in 1991 by Wolfgang Güllich as the first of its grade, even after more than 30 years it attracts climbers from all over the world to the Krottenseer Forest in the Northern Franconian Jura.
A legendary route with which Wolfgang Güllich pushed the boundaries of what is humanly possible in 1991.
Pepa Šindel
Around 25 attempts in nine days
Pepa Šindel is no newcomer when it comes to difficult routes in Franconian Switzerland. Just last May, he managed one of his hardest routes to date, a Modified (9a+) on the Holzgauer Wand. During a "classic summer holiday" in Frankenjura This year it was finally time for the 17-year-old to try his hand at Güllich's most famous legacy.
I made all the moves relatively quickly and was confident that I could do it.
Pepa Šindel
Despite promising beginnings – especially in the iconic jump from the mono-pocket – it was the final pull to the handle that spit Šindel out several times shortly before the end: "It was just a matter of waiting for the perfect attempt and the right conditions."
The Czech spent a total of nine days on the route and invested around 25 attempts until everything was finally right and he was able to clip the anchor. Apparently not having had enough of Güllich routes after that, he immediately turned his attention to another well-known route: Wallstreet, the world's first 8c, which Šindel completed on his fourth attempt.
Action Directe is one of the best lines I have ever climbed.
Pepa Šindel
Action Directe: confirmed ascents & records
With the 41st confirmed ascent* of Action Directe Pepa Šindel joins a line of renowned climbers – and one female climber – who have completed the route since 1991. At 17 years old, the Czech is one of the younger ones to have done it: just this April, Lukas Mokrolusky, also 17 years old and from the Czech Republic, repeated Action Directe.
*Based on a merger of documentation from Climbing History, 8a.nu & Wikipedia, which do not list all visits. No claim to completeness or accuracy!
In addition to the 41 climbers whose ascents are considered confirmed by eyewitnesses/video footage, two repetitions are being discussed in view of a lack of evidence: those of the Briton Richard Simpson (2005) and the Swede Said Belhaj (2018).
Within the community of all Action Directe repeaters there are some records: For example, Alex Megos the route in 2014 as the first within one day, 2020 succeeded Melissa Le Neve the only female repeat so far.
The record for the most recent ascent of the Action Directe (9a) Pepa Šindel’s most famous compatriot says: Adam Ondra climbed the tour in 2008 at just 15 years old. Besides Šindel and Mokrolusky, the Pole Michał Korban also climbed the route at the age of 17.
That might interest you
- Stefano Ghisolfi climbs the legendary Action Directe (9a) | Video
- Historical routes repeated: Ghisolfi and Piccolruaz successful on the rock
+ + +
Credits cover photo: Pepa Šindel