Usually a finger board, such as the Beastmaker model, is drilled above a door frame. But what if the sun is shining on the balcony, you want to warm up efficiently before your project, or you're on a longer journey with your VW bus? Then this assembly technique with reef cords will help you.
A guest post by Christoph Völker from target10a.com
This article describes how to prepare a finger board, here using the example of a Beastmaker, so that you can hang it up on reef cords alone. Stable, of course, so that the board does not tilt forwards or backwards.
What you need: A Beastmaker 2000 (but also works with a 1000er), two cords with a length of 90 cm and a drill with 6 up to 8 mm diameter.
Step 1 - drill training board
A good place for this is below the 35 ° sloper, directly under the inner edge, where the accessory cords can then run over it. So all handles of the beastmakers can still be used. For a 4 mm thick accessory cord, use a 6 mm drill.
Step 2 - Prepare the cords
Before you thread the cords through the board, prepare them with a pocket stitch at one end and a cross stitch (about 4 cm after the pocket stitch). The ordinary lay prevents the accessory cord from slipping through. It is important to keep to the sizes and distances. Ideally, both accessory cords then look identical. The loop of the sack stitch should be approx. 4 cm long. From the end of the loop to the sack stitch, 13 cm is a good measure to get the board hanging stable.
Step 3 - Thread the cords through the board
The third and easiest step: thread the cords from behind through the holes in the beastmaker.
Step 4 - Knot sack stitch in the second end of the cord
Now you have to knot a sack again at a very close distance from 8cm. Then hang the training board on a hook or hook on the loop. The length of this loop is therefore not quite as important. But also here you should knot both strings equal length.
Step 5 - connect loops
Finally you thread the front loops through the back loops and the board is ready to hang. However, some fine tuning may be necessary to keep the board in a nice, stable position when hanging. The distance between the three knots and the size of the back loop are decisive here. The longer the back part of the cord is (from the cross lay to the end of the loop) the more inclined the board should hang. The handles become more positive or easier to hold. In return, you can make the board steeper with a shorter back part of the accessory cord if the challenge is to be increased.
You'll find a huge selection of fingerboards and other training tools www.target10a.com.
Credits: Text and pictures Christoph Völker von target10a.com