Editors
Editors

Adam Ondra opens heavy and spectacular route in Chile: Alcatraz (8c) in sector La Carcel

climbing

Following his trip to the USA (Vlogs here) Adam Ondra went to Chile. In the sector La Carcel in the Valle de los Condores he opened a difficult and extremely spectacular route called Alcatraz. Below you will find video recordings and a topo.

The route in the Valle de los Condores, Chile, begins in the Trad style on spectacular basalt columns, as known from the Devils Tower in Wyoming. The subsequent overhanging roof climbing will turn the initial 6b climb into an 8c route called Alcatraz.

“The landscape, the rock, the waterfalls - here I feel like I'm in paradise.” - Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra in the route Alcatraz in the sector La Carcel in the Valle de los Condores, Chile

Topo for climbing in the Valle de los Condores, Chile

In a third edition Rocanbolt publishes a climbing guide with Topo for the Valle de los Condores. The climbing guide (Spanish) can be found on the website www.rocanbolt.com be downloaded.

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Credits: Cover Picture Gonzalo Riobó / Rocanbolt

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“Drifter’s Escape”: Pietro Vidi achieves the first replay

Editors -
Italian trad climbing pro Pietro Vidi has secured the first repeat of "Drifter's Escape" (9a+, 5.15a). On October 13th, he completed Connor Herson's trad route on Stawamus Chief in Squamish. It is considered one of the hardest crack climbs in the world.
Read more

“DüDaDo in Nowhere” (8a+) – New Alpine multi-pitch route by Schild & Bacchetto

Editors -
Jonas Schild and Anja Bacchetto have established a new alpine multi-pitch route on the Scheideggwetterhorn. "DüDaDo im Nirgendwo" (8a+) ascends the Epp Pillar in nine pitches. Schild achieved the first free ascent in September.
Read more

World Cup season finale in Chile: Garnbret and Utelli win in Lead, double gold for China in Speed

Editors -
At the World Cup in Santiago, Chile, China's Zhao Yicheng and Lijuan Deng won gold in speed climbing. The final set of lead gold medals went to Janja Garnbret and the surprise men's winner, Switzerland's Jonas Utelli. All the weekend's results and the final overall ranking are summarized below.
Read more

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