A few days ago, Swiss professional climber Cédric Lachat scored another difficult route in Spain: Joe Mama (9a +) in Oliana. On the same day, the Frenchman Sébastien Bouin also managed to walk the route.
Cédric Lachat has been in Spain for a long time and is continually announcing difficult inspections. Has started onsight inspections of American Hustle (8c) and Gorillas in the Mist (8b +). These two routes were actually only a secondary location and served more for training.
Denn Cedric has the route Mamichula (9b) envisaged. This consists of the lines Pachamama (9a +) and Papichulo (9a +) together. Cédric had his first success on the way to climbing Mamichula towards the end of January 2020 when he was able to score Pachamama.
Climbed 9a + again
Cédric is still planning the combined Mamichula line (9b). But he also climbs other routes again and again - with success. This is what happened last weekend when he was Joe Mama in Oliana red dot climbed.
“I actually thought I'd score Joe Mama pretty quickly. But then I still needed ten attempts. Joe Mama is certainly not the toughest route for this grade, but you just need a very solid endurance. "
Cédric Lachat on the ascent of Joe Mama
On the same day as Cédric, Frenchman Séb Bouin also scored the Joe Mama route in Oliana.
“Yesterday was a cool day. I climbed Joe Mama with Cédric. It was great that we could both score points on the route. "
Séb Bouin on the inspection of Joe Mama
Also Seb actually has bigger plans in Spain. After Joe Mama's ascent, he was drawn to one of the most difficult routes in the world: La Dura Dura (9b +). The route was designed by Chris Sharma decorated and projected by him and Adam Ondra. The first ascent of the route got off Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma secured the first repeat a month later.
Despite the beta of Chris Sharma who was present, I couldn't make a single move. I have to get a lot stronger. Next I will project Catxasa (9a +) in Santa Linya.
Séb Bouin on La Dura Dura
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Credits: Cover picture Julia Cassou