In order to be able to climb outside in pleasant temperatures in winter, you don't have to fly halfway around the world. Sicily is one of the driest and warmest regions in Italy. The climbing guide Di Roccia di Sole provides plenty of tips - not only for sport climbers, but also for boulderers and DWS fans.
Five editions of the climbing guide Roccia di Sole in less than 15 years are evidence of the evolution of climbing Sicily. The two authors deliver on more than 550 pages Massimo Cappuccino and Joseph Gallo more than enough reasons to pay a visit to the southernmost tip of Italy: be it recently developed climbing areas in the Palermo and Siracusa regions, new routes at San Vito or updated route evaluations. Also new are the chapters on bouldering and deep water soloing, DWS for short.
Di Roccia di Sole: sport and multi-pitch climbing
The two authors present a total of 123 areas that are ideal for climbing. In addition to the various climbing gardens, more and more longer routes are being developed, for example on the high walls between Palermo and Trapani. Due to the large number of new multi-pitch routes, dedicated Southern side this a reference work of its own.
As for difficulties, everyone will find something to their liking. Many areas offer a wide range of moderate grade routes. But Sicily also has some challenges for sport climbers in the upper eighth and lower ninth French degree: For example Climb for Life (9a) in Grotta Cerriolo, True to the line (8c+) in Pandora or fuck system (8c/+) in Onda Anomala.
Bouldering and deep water soloing
Until a few years ago, bouldering in Sicily was only practiced by very few. Sport climbers are still in the majority, but the high demand also seems to be driving the development of bouldering areas. For example, Bosco Sorace has become a worthwhile target.
After the rapid development first in the area around Palermo and then in the region of Trapani and San Vito lo Capo, the East is now coming into play with Canicattini, which has blossomed into the third climbing hotspot in Sicily.
Also, more and more fans are enjoying what is probably the most original form of climbing, deep water soloing. With more than 1000 kilometers of coastline, Sicily not only has some of the most beautiful sandy beaches in the Mediterranean, but also rocky stretches of coast that are suitable for this type of climbing.
Which are the most popular DWS areas in Sicily?
- SIRACUSA
- Giardini Naxos
- San Vito Lo Capo
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Credits: Cover photo Versante Sud / Massimo Cappuccino