The double Bulin as a roping knot is on the rise. The figure eight knot is still the most popular. We will show you how the two knots are tied and what the advantages and disadvantages are.
The requirements for a rope knot are clear: it should be easy to tie, it should also hold up when it's loosely tied and it should be easy to loosen after a fall. While the figure eight knot used to be almost the only knot in the wild, the double bulin can be found more and more often in the climbing garden.
Which button has which advantages? What are the disadvantages? How do I tie the eight, how do I tie the double bulin? We answer these questions here.
The Figure Eight Knot: Pros, Cons & Instructions
This is how the figure eight knot works
Advantages
- The figure eight knot is easy to tie and can be easily checked during the partner check
- The size of the belay loop can be easily adjusted
Disadvantages
- After a fall, the eight is sometimes difficult to release. Especially with thin or old ropes
- After untying, a loop remains that can be forgotten and blocks the rope when tightened while standing.
The Double Bulin: Pros, Cons & How-To
This is how the double bulin works
Advantages
- The bulin is easy to detach even after a fall. The Bulin is therefore very popular, especially for sport climbing at the limit, with many falls.
- The Bulin also holds when the rope comes loose from the last knot sling.
Disadvantages
- The knot is not as easy to control as the figure eight.
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Credits: Knots in cover image Austrian Alpine Club