First 9a+ for Leo Cea (13): “No Pain No Gain” in Rodellar

Climbing a 9a+ was Leo Cea's clear goal for 2026. The year is far from over, but the project has already been accomplished: On September 2nd... The 13-year-old German-Chilean achieved success with "No Pain No Gain" in Rodellar a real endurance test.

A climbing portfolio that is second to none

When he's not traveling to Europe's best climbing hotspot, he is Leo Cea At home, he's used to somewhat shorter routes than "No Pain No Gain." While you won't find 40-meter routes like the one in Rodellar in his home region, the Frankenjura, the training for steep climbing is definitely there. Leo made good use of his training summer in Franconian Switzerland: there he managed to climb some difficult classics such as "Shangri-La" (8c+), "Roof Warrior" (8c) or “Battle Cat” (8c).

Last year, the 13-year-old had already focused primarily on further developing his skills in the 8c+ and 9a range. In 2025, he achieved... “Víctimas Pérez” (9a) in Finestra and “Trip Tik Tonik” (9a) in the Gorges du Loup. In 2026 he climbed “Underground” (9a) and "Pungitopo“ (8c+) in Arco. His tick list today includes a total of seven 9as routes, in addition to 22 routes in the grade 8c and 8c+.

The search for the ideal project

Leo had set his sights on climbing a 9a+ route at the beginning of the year. He came quite close to achieving his goal at Easter when he Promising attempts in "Pure Dreaming Plus" (9a +) He was stuck in Arco. When a crucial hold broke at the crux, he had to abandon the project. This didn't discourage him: "It actually motivated me even more to find another project," says the 13-year-old.

In June, a long-awaited Spanish climbing destination was on the itinerary: Rodellar. Discovering a new climbing area – even for professionals like Leo Cea, that remains something special.

Upon arriving in Rodellar, Leo boarded for the first time in “No Pain No Gain” (9a+) Located in the Ventanas sector, this route was first climbed in 2017 by Dani Fuertes. About half of the roughly 40-meter-long route leads through a huge roof. The crux awaits there in the second part, after which one continues through the overhang to a rest point.

"No Pain No Gain": The name says it all.

The route suited Leo perfectly from the start: “Even on my first attempts, I felt that the route suited me well, and above all, I was fascinated by the style. The route requires quite a lot of strength, but for me, endurance is particularly crucial.”

The hardest moves for him were not those of the first crux, but the final moves out of the roof: “You arrive there completely "empopeyado", i.e., pumped up."And yet I still have to climb a rather complex sequence," says Leo.

Leo also fell most frequently in this section during his attempts to send the route. The 13-year-old had to adjust his beta to his height of 147 cm because he couldn't place all the usual kneebars. Nevertheless, "No Pain No Gain" (9a+) isn't necessarily unsuitable for shorter climbers: Anak Verhoeven and Laura Rogora have also repeated the route. Leo primarily used very high heel hooks on the line.

From Spain to Franconia and back

Within just one week, Leo had worked his way through large sections of the route – even though he couldn't attempt the crux for several days because a bolt had come loose. The bolt was repaired, but he still wasn't quite ready for the ascent. The plan: a second tobogganing trip during the summer holidays at the end of August.

Back in the Frankenjura region, Leo threw himself into his projects and training with great motivation. At the same time, the motto "No Pain No Gain" was always in his mind. "I felt that all the climbing and training prepared me very well for the next trip to Rodellar," Leo recalls.

At the end of August, the Cea family returned to northern Spain, where the intense heat wave necessitated some changes to their daily routine. Despite the summer holidays, Leo was up and about at eight o'clock in the morning – not for school, but for his first attempt of the day. On August 31st, he was able to further optimize his beta with a very good high point. The difference was enormous, the breakthrough was in sight. Now it was a matter of keeping our nerve.

Am 2 September The moment had arrived: Leo launched his first attempt after the warm-up and climbed solidly through the first crux of the roof. His second personal crux, the exit from the large roof, still awaited him. At the same time, Leo was determined to get that far and implement his new beta.

And it worked.

Once he had cleared that section as well, Leo knew: I'm not falling from here. After a few more meters of climbing, he finally clipped the anchor of "No Pain No Gain", his first 9a+.

Between school, rock, and the first competitions

Leo Cea not only takes his first 9a+ home from Rodellar, but also a Flash of "Ixeia" (8b+) with Beta by Luis Alfonso Félix as well several 7c+ onsightsLeo also owes his successful journey to his supporters, including the non-profit Benno Kittl Foundation. "I am very grateful for these opportunities," says the 13-year-old.

What's next for Leo? Next week marks the start of a new school year – and more climbing trips to Siurana, Arco, and Céüse are planned. Leo is also experiencing his first (and successful) taste of competition: In June, he secured the title in Wetzlar. German Youth Title in Lead U15.

Doesn't it sometimes create pressure when things are always only going up?

“This is, of course, a huge responsibility for us as parents,” says father René Cea. “We are extremely careful to ensure that Leo experiences climbing primarily within a family setting, that he doesn’t spend too much time on social media, and that his training is age-appropriate.” If anything, he emphasizes, they sometimes have to slow Leo down: “As a family, it’s important to us that it’s not always just about Leo, but that everyone’s projects at the crag receive attention.”

For Leo, climbing is about much more than just projects and "succeed or fail." The proximity to a historic climbing area like the Frankenjura, with its countless challenges in the heart of nature, motivates him just as much as his love for the sport itself.

That might interest you

• Leo Cea climbs “Underground” (9a) in Arco
• Autumn holidays in Margalef: Leo Cea scores »Víctimas Pérez« (9a)

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Credits cover image: Ori Breluru