After a rainy summer with extremely poor climbing conditions, the hope for a good autumn season is greater than ever. At least September got off to a promising start, the only thing missing is the right tour. We present four beautiful multi-pitch routes in the Plaisir area.
1 Fähnligipfel, Röstiraffle - Alpstein
Once you have finally made the terribly steep ascent through the Brüeltobel, you will soon be rewarded with the first mountain inn and a magnificent view of the lovely valley with its lush alpine meadows. In this idyllic hiking area, the Fählensee lies at the foot of the Widderalpstöck. If you are looking for easy and worthwhile multi-pitch tours with an impressive view, you will find it here. Our recommendation at the Fähnligipfel is the Röstiraffle route.
Fantastic all-round view at the Fähnligipfel
(Video Michi Wohlleben)
Facts about the route
- Difficulty level 5c (5b obl.)
- 6 pitches
- South exposure
- 50 meters of rope, 10 quickdraws, friends and wedges
Guided tour of the Fähnligipfel
Professional alpinist and mountain guide Michi Wohlleben accompanies you on multi-pitch tours like those on the Fähnligipfel. Information on Michi Wohlleben and contact options can be found at www.michiwohlleben.de.
2 Bockmattli Westwändli - Glarus
On the Bockmattli there are serious alpine tours that offer a lot of adventure through the 400 meter high north face of the Great Tower. A well-secured classic in simpler terrain is the Westwändli at the Kleiner Turm. The route is consistently well secured with bolts (including the stands). In the simpler lengths, the distances are a little wider, intermediate securing with wedges is recommended.
Tips: Due to its exposure, the Westwändli is sunnier than the tours on the classic north face and dries off quickly after rainfall.
Facts about the route
- Difficulty level: 5c + (5b / A0)
- 7 pitches
- 50 meters of rope, 10 quickdraws, wedges and friends
- Climbing time: 3.5 hours
- Exposure: West
Once the sun is gone, it gets cold quickly.
3 Pizzo del Prévat, northeastern edge - Leventina
The jagged rocks above Alp Campo Lungo make the “Matterhorn of the South” a popular destination. The route on the northeastern edge is a demanding but well-secured classic. The route with difficulties up to 5c runs mostly along the ridge and delights with grippy scales and solid steps made of gneiss. The route on Pizzo del Prévat can be reached by cable car from the village of Rodi up to Lake Tremorgio. You can spend the night in the Capanna Leit hut at an altitude of 2.257 meters.
Tip: You can choose between two variants for the sixth and seventh pitch. The nicer and slightly more difficult variant follows the ridge.
Facts about the route
- 5c (5a / A0)
- Length 200m
- Duration: 5 hours
- 2x 50m rope, 10 quickdraws, friends and wedges
- Descent over the southeast ridge with some easy climbing spots
4 Roche des Nants, Mustapha - Jura
The Roche des Nants rises steeply and offers impressive tours in relatively easy terrain. A beautiful and worthwhile route in the 6a + area is Mustapha. It runs along a system of cracks in typical Jura limestone. The protection is good and you can rappel down the route.
Facts about the route
- Difficulty level 6a + (obl.)
- 9 pitches
- 50 meters of rope, 10 quickdraws, wedges and friends
- West exposure
That might interest you
- Basic knowledge of pimples: types, standards and sizes
- The accessory cord - you can use it for this
- Hangboard / fingerboard - more than just boards
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Credits: picture material publisher Filidor, Cover photo By Rougemont / CC BY-SA 3.0