Marco Müller climbs L'isola che non c'è | Short interview

The Swiss climber Marco Müller successfully climbs the 9a route L'isola che non c'è near Amden. The heavily overhanging route in a cave near Amden was first climbed by bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole in 2009. David Firnenburg secured the second ascent in 2018. Müller reveals here what attracted Marco Müller to the route and what was the key to success.

How did you get the idea to try the route?

Rainer Eder showed me the cave two years ago and I found the route impressive from the start. I really wanted to climb through it.

What particularly attracted you to the route? What significance does the route have for you?

The route has super cool features. You have to be able to move well and not just pull groins to save strength. I like the style and it suits me too. The atmosphere is also great, especially when it's stormy and raining outside, you always stay dry in the cave and feel quite comfortable. Since the route hasn't been climbed often and was considered mystical for a long time, I think it's even cooler that I was able to climb the line.

What was the key to success?

My key to success was having a good beta and then being able to implement it well and efficiently. In the end I was able to run through the first two parts of the route so that I still had enough strength for the final crux of the route. An uncut video of the inspection will follow.

Do you still have projects in Switzerland?

I still have last fall Finite Infinity im Lehn I looked at it, but unfortunately didn't manage to try any further. I would like to continue projecting it. Otherwise I have no project.

What else is coming up in 2024?

I took a few weeks of vacation in the summer, but didn't plan a specific climbing trip yet. Otherwise, I'll stay here in the region for now and try to get fit again on the rope after this bouldering season.

David Firnenburg on the second ascent of L'isola che non c'è

That might interest you

+ + +
Credits: Cover photo Moritz Waldleben

News

Yannick Flohé flashes “Flow State” (8C) in Val Daone

Shortly before the Rock Master in Arco, where he intends to defend his bouldering title, Yannick Flohé flashed "Flow State" (8C) in Val Daone. After "Foundation's Edge" (8C), it is his second flash at this grade – and according to the German professional climber, the significantly harder one.

After "BIG" now "DNA": Jakob Schubert climbs live again

Starting Friday, October 2nd, Jakob Schubert will be back live: The Austrian will attempt to send Seb Bouin's "DNA" (9c) in the Verdon Gorge and broadcast his efforts via livestream. After "BIG," this is the second 9c route that the climbing community can follow the Tyrolean in real time as he climbs the rock.

Trad, bouldering, sport climbing: 5 downgrades that have shaped our scene

A broken hold, a new beta, or simply a disagreement: The downgrading of boulders or routes can have various reasons. We've compiled five downgrades that caused a particular stir – or were historically important for the climbing scene.

“King Kang” (9b+): Jules Marchaland cracks Ondra’s Dyno project

French climber Jules Marchaland has made the first ascent of the old Ondra project "King Kang" in the Hanshelleren cave near Flatanger. The 25-year-old proposes a grade of 9b+ for the dynamic line.

Yannick Flohé flashes “Flow State” (8C) in Val Daone

Shortly before the Rock Master in Arco, where he intends to defend his bouldering title, Yannick Flohé flashed "Flow State" (8C) in Val Daone. After "Foundation's Edge" (8C), it is his second flash at this grade – and according to the German professional climber, the significantly harder one.

After "BIG" now "DNA": Jakob Schubert climbs live again

Starting Friday, October 2nd, Jakob Schubert will be back live: The Austrian will attempt to send Seb Bouin's "DNA" (9c) in the Verdon Gorge and broadcast his efforts via livestream. After "BIG," this is the second 9c route that the climbing community can follow the Tyrolean in real time as he climbs the rock.

Trad, bouldering, sport climbing: 5 downgrades that have shaped our scene

A broken hold, a new beta, or simply a disagreement: The downgrading of boulders or routes can have various reasons. We've compiled five downgrades that caused a particular stir – or were historically important for the climbing scene.