Martina Demmel: 8b + (OS) and 8c + in one day

The young German talent Martina Demmel caused a sensation with her latest performance. She climbed Humildes pa casa (8b +) onsight and also scored the 8c + route Joe Blau on the same day.

Last week we started editing an article about Martina Demmel's impressive route balance in the current year. But then we received the following message: Martina climbs the 8b + route Humildes pa casa in onsight style, i.e. on the first attempt and without any information about the route.

I am absolutely overwhelmed and can hardly believe what just happened.

Martina Demmel

So far only very few women have succeeded in this, including Josune Bereziartu, Charlotte Durif, Sasha DiGiulian, Anak Verhoeven or Laura Rogora (list is not exhaustive).

Joe blue as the icing on the cake

As if the onsight ascent of an 8b + route wasn't enough to pop the corks properly, Martina got into Joe Blau (8c +) on the same day and also clipped this diverter.

Martina Demmel after the onsight ascent of Humildes pa casa (8b +). Picture Toni Mas Buchaca)
Martina Demmel after the onsight ascent of Humildes pa casa (8b +). Picture Toni Mas Buchaca)

In addition to this explosive news, you should still take a look at Martina's complete climbing record in 2021. The young German talent started the new year in Chulilla with ascents such as Mundo Soñado (8c), Mal de Isla (8b +) or El infierno (8b). After a short stay in Germany, she returned to Spain and competed in the sport climbing mecca of Oliana.

Perfect conditions - unbelievable ascent speed

A little more than a week ago, Martina stood below the rock ledge of Oliana for the first time and couldn't stop raving.

I am incredibly happy to be back in Spain - and also in a world-class area like Oliana. There is probably no better playground for the next four weeks.

Martina Demmel

Martina was so fueled by her fitness, motivation and perfect conditions that she was able to climb seven routes in eighth French grade within a few days, three of them even on sight.

Martina Demmel visiting Red Bull (7c +). Image (Toni Mas Buchaca)
Martina Demmel visiting Red Bull (7c +). Image (Toni Mas Buchaca)

I'm still not sure it's all just a dream that has happened so far. Totally crazy!

Martina Demmel

The complete list of the first days in Oliana:

  • Mishi (8a), on sight
  • Gorillas en la niebla (8b +), second attempt
  • Red Bull extension (8a +), second attempt
  • De Picos pardos (8b), onsight
  • Mon Dieu (8a +), onsight
  • American Hastle (8c), second attempt
  • Marroncita (8b), on sight
  • El Gran Blau (8b +), second attempt
  • Fish Eye (8c), second attempt
  • El Gran Blue (8b +)
  • Humildes pa casa (8b +), onsight
  • Joe Blau (8c +), third attempt

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Credits: Cover picture Toni Mas Buchaca

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