Michi Wohlleben succeeds in the first redpoint ascent of Parzival (8b), the heaviest multi-pitch alpine tour at the Dreifaltigkeit in the Alpstein (Säntismassiv).
Already around 1950 was climbed on the Western Trinity. At that time still in the technical style. At the end of the 90-years, the hardworking developer Markus Hutter moved into the wall. His goal was the free celebration of the Trinity in the Alpstein.
The story of Parzival started before 19 years ago
1998 Markus started the development together with Michael Obendrauf. Time passed, the project was postponed and continued in the year 2006, this time together with Fabio Lupo. It took another two years until Markus Hutter and Fabio Lupo succeeded in the first free ascent of Parzival at the Trinity. A redpoint ascent was still missing.
Many have since bitten off the teeth at the key length
Several years ago, Markus Hutter and Fabio Lupo cleared the route to the site. Since then came various strong climbers, such as the Bernese Silvan Schüpbach, to secure the first red point ascent. Without success. The most difficult track of the tour, estimated to be 8b, successfully defied the red dot.
Michi Wohlleben succeeds in the first redpoint ascent
The German alpinist Michi Wohlleben lives for some time in Appenzellerland. The Alpstein became a popular destination for the ambitious and extremely versatile athlete. He quickly heard of Parzival, the heaviest multi-pitcher tour in the Alpstein. And that she could not commit any red dot yet.
First attempts in autumn - success in spring
2016 checked in the fall Michi the route for the first time and used the mild winter for some experiments. With perfect conditions he succeeded on the 21. May 2017 then the first redpoint ascent of Parzival (150 meter, 6 SL, Proposal: 7a + / 7b, 7b +, 7c +, 8b, 7c, 7a +). Interesting detail: That day was Michi Wohlleben accompanied by the explorer of the route, Markus Hutter. Thus, the circle of this long story at the Trinity miraculously closes.
Picture gallery: Michi Wohlleben in Parzival at the Trinity
Michi Wohlleben climbs the toughest multi-pitch alpine tour in the Alpstein (Säntis massif) with Parzival. More at www.lacrux.com Photo: Frank Kretschmann
Credits: picture Frank Kretschmann