Marcel Schenk and David Hefti succeed on 5. July 2019 the first free ascent of the south pillar on the Cima dal Largh (7b / 7b + / 6c obl.), A historically significant peak of the Bergell.
A report by Marcel Schenk and David Hefti from www.govertical.ch
Already the mountain guide legend Christian Klucker was taken by the wild tip of the Cima dal Largh. It took several attempts and explorations until he teamed up with Mansueto Barbaria on 29. June 1891 stood on the highest of the three summits.
Nearly eighty years later, at the 26. August 1974 opened Flury Koch and Paul Muggli a very difficult for that time route over the striking south pillar. At that time, the climbing was largely overcome by technical means, with many hooks and wooden wedges were beaten. The fact that these two tours were committed by true masters of the then climbing art, you can see today due to the perfect line choice.
The Cima da Largh. The route of the south pillar runs over the left edge.
We have set ourselves the first free ascent to the destination. That means, every single rope length without load of hook and rope to climb. The summit is in a wild, remote area. Accordingly, the approach is long. However, we can benefit from the large amount of snow in the spring. Muddy boulder fields are still covered in snow and allow a quick climb. Shortly before the Furcela Bacun, the sun rises and dips the Bergell granite mountains for a short time in the most beautiful reds. Shortly afterwards we are standing at the foot of the steeply rising south pillar. The rock is russet reddish. We can assume that the rock quality will be excellent.
Last preparations at the entrance of the south pillar.
We climb the first hundred meters quickly. Here begin the steepest meters of the south pillar. From the stand, we can see that the route turns into a compact pillar after a perfect break. This will definitely be the key point. How difficult that will be, whether we are up to it or whether it is free to climb, is still in the stars.
Marcel Schenk checking out the key cable length.
David gets motivated and struggles to the top. He falls several times and searches for new handles and possible sequences. Shortly before the next booth he calls down: "That's free!" Marcel climbs from above secured and cleans with his small brush the necessary grips and kicks. The exact movements are rehearsed and he also believes that this should be freely climbable.
David Hefti in the perfect cracks of the key pitch.
After two more pitches we reach the summit. We marvel at the tremendous views and exposed location of Cima dal Largh. The summit rest is short today because we want to complete our project today. So we rappel again to the key rope length.
After the first climbing meters, the focus is again fully focused on the individual movements. Finest handles and the smallest structures for the feet bring Marcel higher by the meter. The unique rock quality makes our climbing hearts beat faster. The first difficult moves of the ten-meter-high, smooth rock tank are done. Now follows a series of great climbing movements, which lead to the final grip in the next crack system. From below, there are motivating calls. With a final push up Marcel reaches the shallow pedestal of the next level
Marcel Schenk climbs in the second pitch.
David needs one more try. But he succeeds shortly thereafter, the free passage of the key length. The joy is huge. Relaxed and overjoyed, we sit on the small ledge and enjoy the wonderful view to the distant Monte Rosa.
Topo of the route on the south pillar of the Cima dal Largh
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Credits: picture and text Marcel Schenk and David Hefti - www.govertical.ch