Jean-Marie Porcellana and Michel Piola have set up a new multi-pitch route in the climbing area Sanetsch (Valais) with Utopia (8 SL, 7a +). There is information, pictures and topos in this article.

In summer 2020, a new, varied multi-pitch route in the best limestone was created in the Sanetsch area. The first half of the tour is challenging, according to the developers, before things get more comfortable in the second part of the eight pitches.

The route Utopia with a difficulty of 7a + (6c obl.) Begins with the first pitch along the yellow hooks of the Kolem route of the Remy brothers. After the first stand it goes left

Information about the Utopia climbing route in the Sanetsch area

  • Name: Utopia
  • 8 pitches
  • 220 climbing meters
  • Difficulty 7a + (6c obl.)
  • 14 express loops
  • 50 meter rope
  • Inox adhesive hook
  • Stands with two adhesive hooks, without connection
  • Descent: abseiling (6x), once to an offset abseiling point (see Topo!)

Topo of the Utopia climbing route in the Sanetsch area

Topo of the Utopia climbing route in the Sanetsch area.

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Credits: image, topo and information from Jean-Marie Porcellana