The Swiss elite boulderer Nils Favre and the Frenchman Symon Welfringer climb one of the most difficult routes on the Eiger north face with Paciencia (8a, 900m).

Most of them are from French-speaking Switzerland Nils Favre known for its difficult ascents in the discipline of bouldering. In the recent past, however, he has often been out and about in the great walls of the Alps. A few weeks ago he cracked with the Belgian Siebe Vanhee the hardest route in the Alpstein (LACRUX reported) and now continues with Patience one more thing.

Nils Favre - Climbing route Paciencia - Eiger north face. Image Damien Largeron.
Image Damien Largeron.

From the five meter high blocks to the most famous north face in the world

A few days after walking the route Parzival On the Trinity in the Alpstein Mountains, Nils Favre formed a rope team with the French professional climber Symon Welfringer and took one of the most difficult routes on Eiger in attack: Paciencia. The 900 meter long and extremely demanding route extends over 27 pitches and has difficulties up to 8a.

Our energy level was sometimes at a low level, we had trouble finding the right beta and struggled with the heavy haulbags, we were cold and we were tired. But climbing the key length flash was a super great moment.

Nils Favre
Nils Favre in the Route Paciencia on the Eiger. (Photo Damien Largeron)
Nils Favre in the Route Paciencia on the Eiger. (Photo Damien Largeron)

A year ago, Nils Favre first approached the Eiger when he did Deep Blue Sea rotpunkt climbed. It was already clear to him then that the actual destination was the Route Paciencia.

The first time I read David Lama’s account of the Route Paciencia, I was both inspired and alarmed.

David Lama wrote in his report on Paciencia in 2011 that it was the most demanding tour of the season for him.

The Route Paciencia on the Eiger north face was made by Stefan Siegrist and Ueli Steck First climbed in 2003 and redpointed five years later for the first time.

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Credits: Pictures Damien Largeron