Seb Bouin repeats Ondra test piece Move Hard (9b)

The French professional climber Seb Bouin secures the third ascent of the Move Hard route in Flatanger after Stefano Ghisolfi. Adam Ondra had opened the 9b line in 2017 while working on Silence.

The Hanhelleren Cave in Norwegian Flatanger is known for its numerous hard-hitting routes. Some of it is due to the Czech climbers Adam Ondra attributed. So too move hard (9b), which marks the start of Move (9b/+) with the second crux of Silence (9c) connects. It's July 24th Seb Bouin only the third ascent of this mega line succeeded.

The Hanhelleren Cave in Flatanger is home to some of the most difficult routes in the world, including Silence (9c) or Move Hard (9b). Image: Clarisse Bompard
The Hanhelleren Cave in Flatanger is home to some of the most difficult routes in the world, including Silence (9c) or Move Hard (9b). Image: Clarisse Bompard

No success in Project Big

The main goal of his Flatanger trip was the one that was still open ProjectBig. "The Videos of Jacob and Adam last year motivated me to visit the route», says Seb Buoin.

He planned the route for six days and was able to make some interesting progress. But he definitely needs more time to get through. And this is exactly what the French ran away from: "The conditions have deteriorated over the past week, so I have shifted my focus to another route from Adam: Move Hard."

Video: Adam Ondra in Project Big

Move Hard or Silence Easy?

Regarding the 9b route, which only Stefano Ghisolfi was able to repeat before him, Bouin says: "I would say that the route has more in common with Silence than with Move and can therefore also be called Silence easy." We do not know how Ondra feels about the proposed name change.

Move Hard starts with the first crux of Move (9b/+) before turning right into the second and third key points of Silence (9c). "In this respect, the route is a logical step to gain trust for these two key points of silence," says Bouin.

"Move Hard was fun, and even though I'm not currently projecting Silence, I was extremely motivated to try it."

Seb Bouin

As for the beta, Seb Bouin chose a slightly different variant than Adam and Stefano. However, he does not believe that this is a game-changing beta for the route. "It's different, but still tough."

Video: This is how Stefano Ghisolfi climbs Move Hard (9b)

That might interest you

Don't miss anything - receive our newsletter

* Indicates required
Interests

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Clarisse Bombard

News

World Cup season finale in Chile: Garnbret and Utelli win in Lead, double gold for China in Speed

At the World Cup in Santiago, Chile, China's Zhao Yicheng and Lijuan Deng won gold in speed climbing. The final set of lead gold medals went to Janja Garnbret and the surprise men's winner, Switzerland's Jonas Utelli. All the weekend's results and the final overall ranking are summarized below.

Alpine Club on the climate law: Ineffective without consequences

While young people in Salzburg take to the streets for the climate strike, the Austrian Alpine Club stands behind its youth: The planned climate law needs binding consequences, otherwise it will remain ineffective.

New member of the 9A Club: Ritsu Kayotani reprises “No One Mourns the Wicked”

The 20-year-old Japanese climber has now achieved the fifth ascent of the line in Colorado. For Kayotani, it is his first boulder problem graded 9A – although this grade has been under discussion since Yannick Flohé's proposal to downgrade it to 8C+.

Season finale: Last Lead & Speed ​​World Cup in Santiago de Chile

This weekend in Santiago, Chile, climbers will compete for medals – and the overall ranking – for the last time this World Cup season. It is only the second World Cup event to be held in South America.

World Cup season finale in Chile: Garnbret and Utelli win in Lead, double gold for China in Speed

At the World Cup in Santiago, Chile, China's Zhao Yicheng and Lijuan Deng won gold in speed climbing. The final set of lead gold medals went to Janja Garnbret and the surprise men's winner, Switzerland's Jonas Utelli. All the weekend's results and the final overall ranking are summarized below.

Alpine Club on the climate law: Ineffective without consequences

While young people in Salzburg take to the streets for the climate strike, the Austrian Alpine Club stands behind its youth: The planned climate law needs binding consequences, otherwise it will remain ineffective.

New member of the 9A Club: Ritsu Kayotani reprises “No One Mourns the Wicked”

The 20-year-old Japanese climber has now achieved the fifth ascent of the line in Colorado. For Kayotani, it is his first boulder problem graded 9A – although this grade has been under discussion since Yannick Flohé's proposal to downgrade it to 8C+.