Stefano Ghisolfi's patience and perseverance in projecting La capella in Siurana have paid off. The Italian manages the first repetition of the route and the fourth commission for him 9b.
The route La capella was created by Carlos Brasco in the 90 years in the Spanish climbing area Siurana. The 9b rated line is beside Golpe de estado one of the toughest routes in the area. Numerous strong climbers have already tried the route - without success. For example the American Dave graham, Klem Loskot, Ramon Julian and others.
First ascent by Adam Ondra
The first ascent of the route goes to the account of the Czech climber Adam Ondra, who scored the 15 meter route in the year 2011. He describes the route as extremely boulder-heavy with very heavy moves in the first half and a second part, which he only roughly rates with 7c +. The route passes through a small cave in the eponymous sector La capella.
Stefano Ghisolfi needs three days for the key train
It took a full seven years for the route to experience a first repetition. The Italian Stefano Ghisolfi devoted a total of ten days to the route, three of which he invested in unraveling the key point. Accordingly, he comments on the climb with relief: “I'm very happy that the battle is over. At the beginning it felt very hard, I found out a new beta for the first crux but it took me 3 days to do the move. Then after a few days it felt possible and I felt ready to do real attempts, but a hold of second crux broke and it took me some more days just to do that single move again. At the end everything went in the best way, despite the sharpness of a hold that made everything harder, I had to deal with blood and super glue, but it was a fun process anyway. “For Stefano the year begins accordingly pleasing. La capella is after Lapsus in Adonno (2015), First round first minute in Margalef and One slap in Arco the fourth 9b route of his climbing career.
Video of Stefano Ghisolfi in La capella (9b)
Note: The short film is not the recording of the passage, but an attempt.
Credits: picture Matteo Pavana