The 5 most beautiful Plaisir multi-pitch routes in the Bernese Oberland and Furka area

Do you love multi-pitch climbing and prefer moderate levels of difficulty and well-secured routes? Then you should take a closer look at these five Plaisir multi-pitch routes in the Bernese Oberland and Furka area.

Today Sandro von Känel, author of the Filidor climbing guide, presents you with his top five Plaisir multi-pitch routes im Bernese Oberland and Furka area. These are all lines in stunning surroundings, with moderate difficulties and impeccable protection.

The 5 most beautiful Plaisir multi-pitch routes in the Bernese Oberland and Furka area

Plaisir multi-pitch routes: Ueschenen – family route (5c, 140 m)

The gray limestone slabs above Kandersteg await you with numerous well-secured Plaisir multi-pitch routes. In the family route you can test your standing technique and, if necessary, improve it without risking your head and neck!

The most beautiful days are experienced in autumn, when the surrounding peaks already have a white crest, contrasting with the autumnal colors and the sun is still keeping the rock pleasantly warm, simply wonderful!

The family route in Ueschenen above Kandersteg offers 140 meters of well-secured pleasure climbing. Image: Sandro von Känel
The family route in Ueschenen above Kandersteg offers 140 meters of well-secured pleasure climbing. Image: Sandro von Känel

Plaisir multi-pitch routes: Hintisberg – travel fever (5c +, 190 m)

The triumvirate Eiger - Mönch - Jungfrau seems close enough to touch. Hardly any other climbing area has such a backdrop as the rocks of Hintisberg. Reisefieber leads through the right part of the roof-studded wall and offers very nice climbing on cross-banded limestone.

Reisefieber in Hintisberg stands for fun climbing in front of a breathtaking backdrop. Image: Sandro von Känel
Reisefieber in Hintisberg stands for pleasure multi-pitch climbing against a breathtaking backdrop. Image: Sandro von Känel
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Plaisir multi-pitch routes: Tower of Hannibal – Conquest of Paradise (5c+, 160 m) 

In the midst of a grandiose alpine environment, the Hannibal Tower rises up and lures with its red dream rock. The classic on the tower, Conquest of Paradise, leads in varied climbing along cracks, intersections, slabs and upswings to the summit with the comfortable Hanibänkli. The impeccable protection promises pure pleasure at the highest level!

Varied climbing in an alpine setting: Conquest of Paradise on the Hannibal Tower. Image: Sandro von Känel
Varied climbing in an alpine setting: Conquest of Paradise on the Hannibal Tower. Image: Sandro von Känel

Plaisir multi-pitch routes: Gletschhorn – SE rib (5a, 550 m)

So far, the Gletschhorn south ridge has been considered THE pearl in the Furka area. In 2022, the SE rib was also renovated and brought back to life. And it was worth it: repeaters can expect 550 m of the finest granite climbing to the summit!

Apart from 2 rope lengths in the fifth degree, the route bravely holds its own in the Plaisir area (4b-4c). Despite the relatively low difficulties, the route should not be underestimated and should only be tackled with good preparation and in stable weather.

The southeast rib on the Gletschhorn offers 550 meters of the finest granite climbing. Image: Sandro von Känel
The southeast rib on the Gletschhorn offers 550 meters of the finest granite climbing. Image: Sandro von Känel

Plaisir multi-pitch routes: Stone Glacier – Drill Spirit (5c, 250 m)

Far away from the noisy pass road, at the top of the Obertal, the Fünffingerstöck are enthroned. Exceeding the five fingers requires a lot of experience in alpine terrain. More interesting for pleasure climbing is the Bohrgeist, which leads through the south face in 9 pitches up to 5c.

The route is perfectly secured, promises outrageously grippy gneiss and a tremendous panorama!

Bohrgeist leads in 9 pitches through the south face of the Fünffingerstöck. Image: Sandro von Känel
Bohrgeist leads in 9 pitches through the south face of the Fünffingerstöck. Image: Sandro von Känel

Switzerland Plaisir West (Volume 1)

The guide describes the most beautiful climbing areas from Friborg across the Bernese Oberland to the popular climbs on the Susten, Grimsel and Furka passes. The routes presented range in difficulty from 3a to 6c and are mostly suitable for beginners and children.

  • 52 areas
  • 4 colors, 348 pages
  • Format: 12.0 18.5 cm x
  • Languages: German, French, English
  • Year of publication: 2023 (6th edition)
  • Price: CHF 48.-
Climbing Guide Plaisir West
Climbing Guide Switzerland Plaisir West

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Credits: Cover picture Sandro von Känel

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00:18:21

Projecting at the limit and the possibility of failure

Stefano Ghisolfi shows what it means to plan the hardest sport climbing route and the hardest boulder in the world.

Aidan Roberts climbs two potential 9A boulders

Two new 9A boulders? Aidan Roberts was the first to climb two extremely hard boulders that have the potential to be of the highest difficulty.

Seb Bouin climbs new 9b with a “20 meter hardcore finish”

9b first ascent: Seb Bouin releases his project Les Rois du Lithium - an endurance hammer with a 20 meter finish that has it all.