After the European Championships in Munich in mid-August, Stefano Ghisolfi wants to devote his full attention to the 9c route Silence in Flatanger. Will he find a simpler solution than Adam Ondra like in Change (9b+)? And does the 9c even face the same fate as Alex Megos' bibliography?
Last weekend started Stefano Ghisolfi in Innsbruck into the World Cup season. Even if the start with the 18th place did not go as desired, the Italian has further chances to show his strengths with the tour stops in Villars, Chamonix and Briancon as well as with the European Championship in Munich. In addition to the IFSC competition circuit, the 9c route forms Silence a key point in Ghisolfi's season planning.
A month of van life in Flatanger
As Stefano Ghisolfi reveals, it's off to Norway right after the European Championships in Munich. The goal: The Hanhelleren Cave in Flatanger. The cave that houses several of the most difficult routes in the world, including Silence (9c), the masterpiece of Adam Ondra.
Stefano Ghisolfi will spend a month in Norway. He leaves it open whether this is enough to climb a route that Adam Ondra worked on for three years. "I don't expect to climb Silence on this trip, but I'd like to at least get my hands on it." The Italian climbing pro sees the trip to Flatanger as the start of a long-term project.
"I don't expect to climb Silence on this trip, but I'd like to at least get my hands on it."
Stefano Ghisolfi
Video: Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Change (9b +)
Talent for optimized solutions
This sounds perfectly reasonable and equally modest. It's understandable that Stefano Ghisolfi doesn't want to lean too far out of the window. But don't forget that he has a keen talent for finding the optimal beta on the most difficult routes.
For example, there would be the 9b+ Change in the Hanhelleren cave. Here Stefano Ghisolfi found one completely different solution than first ascent Adam Ondra. He was able to climb the monstrous line, which consists of 185 trains and stretches over 55 meters of climbing, after just one month of planning.
Also in the route Bibliography in Ceuse the Italian found a solution that even the first ascent Alex Megos recognized as better than his. Ultimately, this led to Ghisolfi downgrading Megos' 9c route to 9b+.
Video: Stefano Ghisolfi climbs bibliography (9b +)
Is Silence threatened with devaluation?
In view of the determination with which Stefano Ghisolfi looks towards Norway and in view of his physical condition, the question naturally arises as to whether Silence will soon be threatened with devaluation. This certainly depends heavily on how well the line and its movement sequences suit the Italian.
«I can hardly wait to return to Flatanger, where I already managed to repeat Change two years ago.»
Stefano Ghisolfi
Adam Ondra's twisted knee in the crux has so far deterred all potential repeaters. This obviously doesn't seem to be the case with Ghisolfi.
2020 has crack pro Pete Whittaker also proved in a self-experiment that the Jam crack of Silence leaves. However, since Ghisolfi is not an explicit crack expert, he will most likely come up with a new solution.
We are excited and so is Stefano Ghisolfi: "I can hardly wait to return to Flatanger, where I managed to repeat change two years ago."
That might interest you
- Stefano Ghisolfi gets the first ascent of the Route l'Arenauta (9b)
- Video: Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi project together in Arco
- Adam Ondra climbs the heaviest route in the world with Silence (9c)
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Credits: Cover picture Sara Grippo