Finger taping – 3 common taping methods

Muscles adapt to stress more quickly than tendons, ligaments, and capsules. If these are injured, they make climbing very difficult. Finger injuries, in particular, are unfortunately not uncommon in climbing. We'll show you a few common taping methods for the most common climbing and bouldering injuries. 

Tape functions much like a crutch. It relieves some of the weight that our ligaments, capsules, or joints would otherwise have to bear, thus supporting weak points in the body. Therefore, taping should not be used preventatively or continuously. As our joints become accustomed to the support, they become weaker. 

1. Taping the end joint

• To do this, wrap the tape around your finger once or twice, applying gentle pressure under the joint.
• Effective for light tension or for prevention.

2. Figure-8 tape

Pain in the middle finger joint can indicate capsular strain or capsular inflammation. If the joint capsule is overloaded, the figure-8 method helps stabilize and relieve pressure on the joint. It also provides external support for unstable or hypermobile fingers and can prevent the joint from slipping into an unfavorable position. After a previous capsular injury, taping protects the affected joint during the rehabilitation phase and provides more control when returning to training. 

The figure-8 tape is used to prevent the finger from overstretching and stabilizes both the joint and the annular ligament against lateral loads.

• Keep your finger slightly bent, about 30 degrees at the middle joint.
• Place the tape as close to the palm of your hand as possible and wrap it once around the base of your finger. 
• Now cross from the palm of the hand over the middle joint and wrap the tape around the middle finger joint.
• Cross back down on the inside.
• Now wrap the base link again and you’re done.

3. H-Tape

Pulley ligament injuries are the most common injuries among climbers. When climbing, enormous forces act on our fingers. The pulley ligaments play a key role in dealing with these forces. They hold the flexor tendons close to the bone and prevent them from "popping off" when gripping.

Each finger has five of these ligaments, A5-A1. If they are overloaded, for example, by crimping on small ridges combined with dynamic pulling, strains or even tears can occur.

The H-Tape method relieves and supports the ligament:

• You need a small strip of tape, which you tear in half from both ends until about a finger's width of tape remains. 
• Stick the strip with the untorn part onto the middle joint of your finger from the inside and then place the tabs around your finger.

When should you tape?

• In case of slight overload or first pain
• For prophylaxis in very long sessions or during crux moves with high finger load
• After the injury has subsided in the return phase

What doesn’t taping do?

Tape is no substitute for healing! Rest is essential for injuries, and anyone who thinks they can simply "boulder over it" with tape risks a longer climbing break. 

Furthermore, taping doesn't automatically protect against overuse—it's a tool, not a miracle cure. Listen to your body. Pain isn't a training stimulus. If your pain persists, stop taping and consult a professional.

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