Garnbret, Graham, Uznik & Co boulder hard

In the past few days and weeks, numerous difficult boulders have been repeated and opened. It's high time for an overview.

When the temperatures start to drop at the world-famous bouldering hotspots in Ticino, Magic Wood or Malta Valley, strong boulderers are usually not far away to take advantage of these favorable conditions.

Unison line (8C) repeated for the first time

Nicolai Uznik secures itself in Brione the second ascent of Aidan Roberts 8C Boulder UnisonThe extremely hard ledge boulder requires a lot of precision and good coordination on the tiny holds and footholds.

Uznik came pretty close to completing it in the first session after checking out the key moves. "Luckily, I was able to climb Unison the next day within a few attempts."

Francesco Berardino repeats Capitan Nemo (8C)

The Italian bouldering specialist Francesco Berardino commits in Val Bavona Pietro Vidi's Testpiece Captain Nemo (8C). The sit start of the classic Finding Nemo requires the complete repertoire: powerful and technical movements, tricky knee clamps and mental strength when getting out.

Janja Garnbret's impressive day in the Malta Valley

Once again, the strong Slovenian Janja Garnbret with difficult ascents in Malta Valley After winning the Testpiece iron climbed twice she recently left the popular bouldering area again with an impressive tick list. Within one day she bouldered:

• Hide and sick 8B+
• Power of goodbye 8B
• Wrestling with an alligator 8B
• Black Jack 8A+
• Orgasmatron 8A/+ (flash)

Strong Japanese in Ticino

The Japanese boulderer Ryuichi Murai took on the 9A boulder on his recent bouldering trip alphanes Despite promising attempts and a new high point in his fifth session, he was ultimately unable to complete the climb.

Ryuichi Murai had significantly more success in other classics in Ticino. In Brione, for example, he repeated the two 8B+ boulders The Kingdom and CasavinoAt the end of his trip, he secured a repeat of the Jimmy Webb line Somnolence (8B) in Cresciano.

Nomura Shinichiro: Three times 8B+ in one day

Ryuichi Murai's compatriot Nomura Shinichiro also used his stay in Switzerland to persuade Alphane to make an ascent. His efforts have not yet been crowned with success.

On November 10th, he managed a hat trick at Magic Wood that was quite something: Mystic Stylez (8B+), New Base Line (8B+, 2nd attempt), and Remembrance of things past (8B+). A little later he also managed the two test pieces Tigris Sit (8B+) and Practice of the Wild (8B+).

8C+ Boulder Floatin repeated

In Mizugaki, Yuta Imaizumi was able to use the Mega Line floatin (8C+). Opened by Ryuichi Murai in December 2021, the boulder has seen barely a handful of ascents since the first ascent.

Sean Bailey was also successful on this very powerful line during his trip to Japan. The American bouldering pro seems to be on a real high at the moment. He recently announced the first ascent of the 9A boulder Shaolin.

Dave Graham with first ascent of The Tesseract (8C)

A few days ago, the bouldering veteran announced Dave Graham the first ascent of The Tesseract (8C). This is the sit start to Giuliano Cameroni's line Earth Ship (8B). Dave Grave is full of praise for the boulder:

Dave Graham has added five more moves to Earth Ship, which he rates as an 8B sequence. Combining these five moves with the low percentage standing start was far more difficult than he thought. However, the last move turned out to be the ultimate crux for him. "After so many intense moves on ledges, combined with bad footholds, the last dynamo requires a huge change in flow and style."

That might interest you

• Historic: Michaela Kiersch repeats Dreamtime, the world's first 8C boulder
• Another 8C boulder for Katie Lamb

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Credits: Cover picture Dave Graham