Olympic gold medalist Alberto Ginés López almost repeated the Ticino classic Off the Wagon (8B+) in just one session. The 20-year-old Spaniard made the key move five times in a row. In the end, a soaking wet exit forced him to make a second visit to Val Bavona.
Off the Wagon (8B+) is one of the most famous boulders in Europe. Discovered by Dave Graham, deciphered by Chris Sharma and first climbed by Nalle Hukkataival, the line draws in the Val Bavona still attract the world's best climbers today.
For example Alberto Gines Lopez, who almost climbed the line in one session - were it not for the wet exit. "In the first session I was able to make the key move five times in a row," says the strong Spaniard. Unfortunately, the top was completely wet. So it took a second attempt before the Olympic champion Off the Wagon (8B+) could tick off.
Alberto Ginés López climbs Off the Wagon (8B+)
If you compare this period of time with the six years that lie between the discovery and the first ascent of the boulder, that's pretty fast. We're curious to see how long it takes the 20-year-old to decipher the seat-start version.
Marco Müller climbs off the wagon so smoothly
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Credits: Cover picture Dominik Haertl