Not for nothing is Brione counted among the best bouldering areas in Switzerland. In the Verzasca Valley you can expect a high density of top lines in the best gneiss, in the middle of a picturesque landscape. We have put together the most beautiful lines of Brione, so that your first visit is guaranteed to succeed.
A guest post by Nora Scheel and Natalie Bärtschi - Bächli Bergsport
For once we have arranged the choice not by difficulty, but by Boulder style. The information refers to the topos of Smartphone app "Bimano".
IMPORTANT: Please note the access restrictions and rules of conduct in the area (details below).
For groin bangers
Let's start with the most well-known but no less worthwhile line: Molonk 7c in the sector Pianèsc. Strong trains on perfect bars and a wide key to the edge here require a lot of finger current and body tension. More beautiful ledges on slightly overhanging rock offer Ninth Power 7c and Ninth power left 7b in the same sector. Dynamic moves, technical moves and a coat to finish are waiting for you here.
Also for Ponk 8a (see following picture) on Vecchio-Leone-Block is necessary finger current needed. Wide trains, a good amount of body tension and a good heelhook bring you up the relatively steep wall here. By the way, the line on the same block to the left of the tree (in the upper 6 degree, not in the app) is also recommended. At ledges and sloper ledges she leads straight up the block.
On the other side of the river, just opposite Ristorante Ai Piee, is the notorious Dosage Jump-Block. On the left edge, precision and good beta are required to navigate through the small-neat cracks of this unnamed 7a. If you still have not had enough, we recommend a side trip to Entwash 8a in the sector Ponte 1 directly on the river. Already for the start position you have to cling to washed-out, round strips properly - definitely not for the weakest fingers.
For hook specialists
The classic hook classic is Just Toe It 7b in the sector Pianèsc. Depending on the beta, Toehooks or several aggressive heelhooks are used here. At slopers, ledges and corners you work your way up the slightly overhanging wall. Depending on the solution also several hooks you can in Pamplemousse 8a set (see following picture). Along the unique rock structures, you will climb to the top with ledges, pliers and holes. Unfortunately, this line was chipped a few years ago (artificially hitting or altering handles) and thereby defused the key point. Fortunately, the original line remains unchanged and the new handle can be safely omitted.
For plate crawler
If you prefer it flat to vertical, you will find it Pebble problemBlock in sector Pianèsc several beautiful lines. Its flat side offers boulders from 5 to 6b +, in perfect height and with a good take-off area. You also have to unpack sensitivity and footing in There is no spoon 7a in sector Ponte 1 (see following picture). About Reibungstritte, slopige handles and a high Heelhook you get here to the top. Even more tricky is the classic Randy Slab 7b + in the same sector. Agility, balance and patience are the key to success here.
For refrigerator press
You love compression problems? Then you will Atlantis 7c a short, powerful boulder with dynamic moves in the sector Pianèsc. Not unexpectedly, it is also at Ballerman 7b in the sector Ponte 2 a strong Sloper problem, with a jump to the conclusion. Whoever is even stronger, comes with the classic Fake Pamplemousse 8a in the pie sector at his expense. Aesthetically as well as climbing technique is one of the best lines Special Edition 8abarely five kilometers down the valley from Brione. A short ascent through the local Rustici and you are already standing in front of your dream boulder. The final mantle is not to be underestimated and it is worthwhile bring enough pads.
Who can move well will be in Marilyn Monroe 8a in the Ponte 1 sector. With a lot of body tension and a good footing technique, you will reach the slightly overhanging wall here. A good body feeling also demand the classic Brione Arête 6b + and Brione Arête left 7a, You follow the left and right edges of a beautiful block in the meadow of Pianèsc. Balance, a good footing and a bit of courage bring you here on the rather high block. You also have to move well in the above mentioned Pebble issue 6b + in the sector Pianèsc.
The already mentioned above Dosage Jump 6c in the pie sector is almost a must for the dynamic guys among us. He is known from the climbing film series "Dosage" with Chris Sharma, Dave graham and Co. A good dose of bounce, some risk-taking and several Pads for the landing zone are certainly an advantage here. Also the already mentioned Ballerman 7b in Ponte 2 offers a jump to the conclusion. Wanted 7c + in Ponte 1 requires after the jump additionally some precision and finger power to hold on to the target handle. If you prefer to jump on round handles, try in Like on vacation 8a just below Wanted along the river.
For roof lovers
Unique rock structures directly on the river offers the classic Frogger 8a in sector Piee (see following picture). A dynamic pull on a small pair of pliers, followed by strong pulls on good grips require good body tension and endurance. Also highly recommended Black Pearl 7c + in sector Ponte 2, originally rated with 8a +. Unfortunately, something was helped here as well. The chipped handle makes the Boulder easier, but not less worthwhile.
Those who like to stay close to the ground can find some beautiful trusses in Brione, starting with the unnamed 7a truss on block 10 in sector Ponte 1. A beautiful line, whose rough Sloper bars, however, require enough skin reserves. Also nameless is the Traverse left of Molonk in the sector Pianèsc. Here you can make the boulder according to your taste - start at the left, traverse over good handles to the right and get out where it suits you best. Imposing rock structures in all colors are offered by the equally nameless sidewalk on block no. 4 in the sector Ponte 2 (not in the app). We recommend a start at no. 2 and an exit via no. 1, the rating is probably somewhere in the upper 6. Degree.
For the intrepid
In Brione, of course, there are, so-called Highballs. A level landing on a soft surface makes the whole course much more pleasant to find in Brione Arête 6b +, Brione Arête left 7a and Black Mirror 6b / c in the meadow of Pianèsc. Also part of the high classics Sunbathers aka Beach Block 7c. On a strong start in steep terrain here follow long trains in the vertical to the exit. If that is not high enough, try the beautiful Black Arete 7c + just below the bridge at the Ristorante Piee. Depending on the water level, a dry landing is not guaranteed here.
For heavy current
Also in the upper difficulty scale the possibilities in Brione are numerous. The 8b classics Vecchio Leone, General Dissaray and Amber leave nothing to be desired. It is still a whole degree heavier The Kingdom 8c to the left of Vecchio Leone. Recently, Giuliano Cameroni was also able to Poison the Well 8c + (see picture below) his long-standing project to the left of Pamplemousse scored and thus gave the area the most difficult boulder yet.
Information about the bouldering area Brione in Ticino, Switzerland
Brione offers around 700 Boulder from 3 to 8c +, with new lines being opened up all the time. High season is autumn to spring. You can spend the night in the caravan parking lot in the village or in the hotel Ai Piee. Topos exist in the App "Bimano" and "27 Crags" or from October in the leader of Ticino Boulder.
When bouldering in Brione, be sure to follow the local rules, otherwise you may face blockage of the entire boulder area. Camping is only allowed on the caravan parking lots. The meadow of the sector Pianèsc is of the 31. March to 15. October closed. Also the way through the Rusticos near Pianèsc is closed for Boulderer, please use the signposted ways to the sectors Pianèsc and Vecchio Leone.
The Verzasca Valley with its famous bridge
Here you will find the right equipment
All the equipment for the perfect boulder trip to Brione is available in the 13 stores of Bächli mountain sports, If Crashpad, climbing shoes, Chalkbag, Magnesium and, Boulderbrushes or Skincare for thin skin - at Bächli Bergsport you have the widest selection Boulder equipment throughout Switzerland. Of course everything too on-line.
About Bächli mountain sports
Bächli mountain sports is the leading Swiss specialist shop for climbing, mountaineering, expeditions, hiking, ski touring and snowshoeing. At currently 13 locations in Switzerland, Bächli Bergsport offers its customers expert advice and high-quality service. Published on LACRUX Bächli mountain sports periodically exciting contributions to the topics climbing, bouldering and mountaineering.
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Cover photo: David Tomlinson