Editors
Editors

2028 Olympics: separate medals for bouldering, lead & speed

competition

At the 2028 Los Angeles Olympic Games, there will be three independent medals for the first time in bouldering, lead, and speed. The new rules replace the combined lead and bouldering format from Paris.

The IFSC and the International Olympic Committee (IOC) have announced that at the next Olympic Games in Los Angeles In 2028 there will be separate medals for the disciplines of bouldering, lead and speed climbing.

At the 2028 Los Angeles Olympic Games, every single discipline will have the chance to shine on the world stage.

IFSC

Los Angeles is the third appearance of climbing at OlympiaAt the 2021 debut in Tokyo, athletes had to qualify with a three-way combination of bouldering, lead, and speed and participate in all disciplines – a decision that was heavily criticized and revised in Paris 2024 with the combined format of bouldering and lead.

The men's Olympic podium in Paris. Image: IFSC/Drapella/Virt

Initial reactions to the new medal rules on social media have been positive, including from athletes and coaches. According to the IFSC President Marco Scalaris This means that "the goal of providing the three disciplines with their own medal sets" has finally been achieved. This has been the plan since Tokyo.

Each discipline has unique strengths and these will now be visible to everyone in LA 2028.

Marco Scolaris, President of the IFSC

Higher participation rate and potential multiple starts

In addition, the IOC for Los Angeles, an increased quota for male and female athletes will be allowed to participate. A total of 2028 men and women will be able to compete at the 38 Olympics, four more places each than in Paris.

The IFSC will finalise the exact allocation of quota places to the three disciplines as part of the qualification system, which is also being revised. This will also address whether athletes Olympia will be allowed to compete in several disciplines in the future.

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Why Adam Ondra downgrades “Exodia” from 9A+ to 9A

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Adam Ondra has achieved the first repeat of Elias Iagnemma's "Exodia" (9A+) in Val Pellice, Italy. The exceptional Czech climber considers the grade 9A more appropriate – likely also because he only needed four days for the route, compared to 212 days for the first ascensionists.
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