Is Adam Ondra's Route Silence even 9c + or 10a?

As part of the second episode of the news program Beta, we spoke to Adam Ondra and asked him who he sees as a 9c contender and whether his Route Silence might have to be rated more heavily than 9c. While we were only able to publish an excerpt from our questions and its answers in the program, everything is available here in full.

An interview with Adam Ondra

A few weeks ago, the German professional climber Alexander Megos. as the second climber scored a 9c route. He managed the first ascent of the route Bibliography in the climbing area Céüse. During bibliography shortly afterwards from Jakob Schubert was bouldered out, Silence - as the name suggests - is rather quiet. Is the route more difficult than 9c? Who can climb 9c at all? We have Adam Ondra .

LACRUX: Are you going to try Alex Megos' Bibliography Route? When?
Certainly not in the near future, because I am currently concentrating intensively on the Summer Olympics. At some point I'll definitely look at the route and then I'll see whether the line motivates me or not.

Why Adam Ondra rated Silence with 9c
Adam Ondra on the route Silence in Flatanger, Norway.

Who could climb a 9c route next to you and Alexander Megos right now?
I think Jakob Schubert has the best chance of climbing 9c. However, I think that Silence does not correspond to his climbing style and he is probably not particularly motivated to start the route. I don't know whether bibliography corresponds to his style. I'm curious myself how many holes the route has - because neither I nor I like this route style Jacob. But if the route appeals to him, then I have absolutely no doubt that he can climb 9c.

You climbed Silence almost three years ago and made history with it. Apart from Pete Whittaker, who has checked out the route before?
The Frenchman Sébastien Bouin took a look at Silence. I have to admit, I chose Silence because the route suits me and the others don't like this style. In the videos, the nature of Route Silence is pretty evident - and I think it looks pretty intimidating.

Could it be that Silence is even harder? 9c + or even 10a?
No, certainly not. 9c + or even 10a would have to be much, much more difficult if we don't want to inflate the difficulty scale in the future either. Each step on the difficulty scale really has to be a noticeable step in the actual difficulty of the route.

Are you more interested in planning the route bibliography or a completely new 9c route?
That's a good question. But I don't really know the answer to the question. As soon as the Summer Olympics are over, I'll find an answer to the question.

You can find more about 9c and other interviews in the news broadcast Beta # 2

In the second issue of BETA there are: Interviews with Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert on the topic of 9c climbing routes // Assessments by climbing physio Klaus Isele // Criticism of the Belgian climbers Nico Favresse and Sébastien Berthe // News from the Eiger // Recordings of a new adventurous Route on the Wellhorn north face.

That might interest you

+ + +
Credits: Cover picture AO Productions

News

How is artificial intelligence changing the sport of climbing?

Whether in training or route setting, for climbing gym operators or amateur athletes: We have looked at some examples of how artificial intelligence is currently shaping climbing, what might come in the future and what advantages and risks are involved.

Warming up on the rock: This is how Alexander Megos does it.

On a trip away from Bleu and Ticino, it's often just you and your project. No warm-up boulders and easy routes in sight. Professional climber Alexander Megos explained to us how best to prepare your fingers and body for such situations. He always keeps two things in his car for this purpose – a yoga mat and a fingerboard. Here he explains how he uses both.

Messner tours Germany: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt

Reinhold Messner will embark on a lecture tour starting in October: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt, four different programs. From "Nanga Parbat" to "World Mountains – The 4th Dimension". Tickets are available through Eventim.

New sole instead of a new shoe: the time to resole

The right time to get climbing shoes resoled is sooner than you might think: when there's about one millimeter of sole left. Honestly, nobody measures it, but how do I know when I should get my shoes resoled, and where can I even do that?

How is artificial intelligence changing the sport of climbing?

Whether in training or route setting, for climbing gym operators or amateur athletes: We have looked at some examples of how artificial intelligence is currently shaping climbing, what might come in the future and what advantages and risks are involved.

Warming up on the rock: This is how Alexander Megos does it.

On a trip away from Bleu and Ticino, it's often just you and your project. No warm-up boulders and easy routes in sight. Professional climber Alexander Megos explained to us how best to prepare your fingers and body for such situations. He always keeps two things in his car for this purpose – a yoga mat and a fingerboard. Here he explains how he uses both.

Messner tours Germany: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt

Reinhold Messner will embark on a lecture tour starting in October: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt, four different programs. From "Nanga Parbat" to "World Mountains – The 4th Dimension". Tickets are available through Eventim.